Bosch boiler, replacing programmer on this strange Aus. spec

[mookschank]

Hello there,

This is my 1st post on this forum, so go easy

I thought some UK posters might be able to help me out on my Bosch boiler. It is an Australian specification boiler, 18kw condensing (yes i live in Australia, and yes it does get cold in Melbourne!), installed a month ago, CH only.

[Some background on the boiler: The thing with Australian CH boilers is that they are relatively rare due to demand and Australian Standard compliance (can't grab any from O/S). Now, Bosch has clapped together a parts base, tested it and released it onto the market. My boiler looks like a Greenstar CDi, I actually looked up the PCB part no. and it is from a Greenstar Junior 24i].

Ok, hope someone is still reading!

Anyhow, I have the DT10RF installed and it is darn awful! I am looking to replace it with a Honeywell CM907 (wireless not worth it as boiler is outside in a metal case so just as easy to hardwire into house).

I am pretty handy in electrics, however, the Nanny state (Australia is not showing me clear wiring diagrams).

Ok, now to my question: All I need to know is how to disconnect the DT10RF (just pull off boiler and unclip from PCB?), and how to hook up the Honeywell. The wiring diagram I do have doesn't seem very clear (no mention of a thermostat, see pics below).

My plumber said it's pretty easy and I should give it a go first. Otherwise I call him in and pay 200 pounds (no, i'm not kidding).


I am yet to pull open the boiler (it is encased in a metal 'outdoor' casing and talks half hour to pull off).


Can anyone offer any advice? (I've read quite a few threads and understand the live/switch thing).


Thanks for reading,
Mook.

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[doitall]

Dead easy Cobber.

Find ST 10.

Remove the link between Ls & Lr.

Connect a wire between LS and A in the stat.

Connect a wire between LR and B in the stat.

 

[matt1e]

Dead easy Cobber.

Find ST 10.

Remove the wires from the DT10RF that will be connected to Ls & Lr.

Connect a wire between LS and A in the honeywell stat.

Connect a wire between LR and B in the honeywell stat.

He won't have a link fitted DIA as he has external controls already fitted
so I have amended ya post

Matt

 

[doitall]

Dead easy Cobber.

Find ST 10.

Remove the wires from the DT10RF that will be connected to Ls & Lr.

Connect a wire between LS and A in the honeywell stat.

Connect a wire between LR and B in the honeywell stat.

He won't have a link fitted DIA as he has external controls already fitted
so I have amended ya post

Matt

The DT10RF receiver should be plugged straight into the PCB.

 

[matt1e]

Dead easy Cobber.

Find ST 10.

Remove the wires from the DT10RF that will be connected to Ls & Lr.

Connect a wire between LS and A in the honeywell stat.

Connect a wire between LR and B in the honeywell stat.

He won't have a link fitted DIA as he has external controls already fitted
so I have amended ya post

Matt

The DT10RF receiver should be plugged straight into the PCB.

Ah well in that case-

 

[doitall]

It should have a ribbon cable, but we are talking Australia, so could/may/likely be different.

 

[Tom1981]

Australia has gas boilers in need of servicing, right... I'm moving.

 

[45yearsagasman]

Tom1981, been there, done that

 

[Dan Robinson]

Yeah but Tom. ...its looking like they're all Juniors

Sorry OP if the inside of your boiler looks like that then it ain't a cdi .

 

[mookschank]

Thanks guys for the replies!

Seems pretty easy which is great. (I was getting confused by the looking at Worcester wiring diagrams and controllers seemingly wired to the long junction terminal thing rather than the ST10).

Yes receiver is attached to the PCB and I saw a ribbon cable in a pic somewhere.

Thanks Dan, re: my boiler being Junior like. Least I know what it sort of is, especially for spare parts that at $$$ over here

Thanks again.

 

[Dan Robinson]

Good luck dude.

 

[mookschank]

Thanks guys, as easy as 1, 2, 3. Turned boiler off, unhooked DT10 ribbon cable, removed the bridging wire and wired in the unit as above.

Took me a couple of hours to thread the wire down the back of the lounge wall and under the house and 15 mins for the boiler wiring and the programmer is working fine.


Next task is to play with lowing the CH temperature as the boiler is cycling every 7-10 minutes.


Thanks again.

Mook.