I'm on option A but it's the same thing. Just trying to work out where this would go. if it went before the bathroom light that means the other lights on the radial will be affected and not sure if that will cause any problems and if this is the case the the whole lighting circuit should be 3amps from the board. Going to give up with it for tonight.
Extractor fan wiring
- Thread starter Jacka
- Start date
I'm on option A but it's the same thing. Just trying to work out where this would go. if it went before the bathroom light that means the other lights on the radial will be affected and not sure if that will cause any problems and if this is the case the the whole lighting circuit should be 3amps from the board. Going to give up with it for tonight.
If you have the Icon 15 with the timer control module, the three pole isolator fed by three core and earth cable as you have described, then Option B should be your wiring diagram.
The fan isolator is not a FCU, this is http://www.screwfix.com/p/crabtree-13a-fused-connection-unit/56715, it will require to be done fused from 13A to 3A.
They are located as near to where you take the live feed as possible, in an accessible position. There are grid module units that integrate both the fan isolator and a FCU. I know the click system offers this facility.
There are a number of icon 15 fans, what type is yours?
And what does your MI say to do to install this unit correctly?
Well I've decided to get the professional in to do it next weekend which will save me the hassle.
From what I gather it's a standard Airflow Icon 15 with a timer module that clicks into the pins on the fan. The module has L, N and T on. Not sure what the T stands for to be honest.
OUt of interest, do the new regs say that the whole bathroo (lights extractor etc) should be off a 3 amp spur
From what I gather it's a standard Airflow Icon 15 with a timer module that clicks into the pins on the fan. The module has L, N and T on. Not sure what the T stands for to be honest.
OUt of interest, do the new regs say that the whole bathroo (lights extractor etc) should be off a 3 amp spur
Sounds like a good idea.
Switched Live.
No the regulations don't say that but the regulations do say you should follow the manufacturers instructions - which in this case state the requirement for both a 3A FCU and RCD protection.
Cheers for that. I'll see what he does next weekend.
I'm assuming the best way to do it is, run the light circuit to a fuse spur above the centre of the door, then spur off to the first spotlight then wire in as normal with a 3 pole switch above the door or to the side.
I've read quite a bit of this and a lot of people say it's overkill on a lighting circuit. Someone said the circuit breaker for the lights would trip way before a 3 amp fuse blew. Is that the general consensus for electricians or do they agree with it.
I'm assuming the best way to do it is, run the light circuit to a fuse spur above the centre of the door, then spur off to the first spotlight then wire in as normal with a 3 pole switch above the door or to the side.
I've read quite a bit of this and a lot of people say it's overkill on a lighting circuit. Someone said the circuit breaker for the lights would trip way before a 3 amp fuse blew. Is that the general consensus for electricians or do they agree with it.
It is totally unnecessary 'electrically' but it means the manufacturer has made a product which requires you to protect it by placing an unnecessary extra box on your wall because they have made a product which is not fit for the known purpose.
There are fans whose manufacturers do not require this.
http://www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:lighting:fan
The diagrams using a double-pole switch are particularly useful.
The diagrams using a double-pole switch are particularly useful.
Completely understand.
I work in manufacturing and I know manufacturers standardise products and only really tweak them when they have to. I had one of these in my old property which was wired to a 3 pole and that was it. It will be the same product only manufactured more recently.
Something has obviously happened to make them change the installation instructions
I work in manufacturing and I know manufacturers standardise products and only really tweak them when they have to. I had one of these in my old property which was wired to a 3 pole and that was it. It will be the same product only manufactured more recently.
Something has obviously happened to make them change the installation instructions
I think it's probably even 'worse' than that. I seriously doubt that, in reality, the products are significanly less 'protected' by a 3A fuse than they would be by the 5/6A OPD protecting the whole lighting circuit. I therefore suspect that it probably realates from some over-zealous (and unnecessary) attempt at 'backside covering' on the part of the manufacturers.
I do think that the wording of the regs as regards 'following MIs' would benefit from being modified to allow the exercise of some judgement, discretion and electrical common sense. Apart from anything else, as things stand, the regs appear to require one to 'comply with MIs' even if they are wrong/dangerous!
Kind Regards, John
So you'll have to have the bathroom light off the FCU, and change how it's currently wired. You'll need to introduce a (accessible or MF) junction box to maintain the loop for the rest of the lights.
If you use a DP switch, and a DP switched FCU, you can dispense with the fan isolator as the FCU will do full isolation.
The regulations already allow that.
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