I'm not an expert on safe zones but I don't think you need one there at the right angle.
Its in the vertical safe zone of the switch
and in the horizontal safe zone of the outlet
Read what John wrote
Spur off cooker switch?
- Thread starter tonytinman
- Start date
I'm not an expert on safe zones but I don't think you need one there at the right angle.
Its in the vertical safe zone of the switch
and in the horizontal safe zone of the outlet
Read what John wrote
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Which teaches you absolutely nothing about LV electrical installations.
But you're not.
The problem is, as this thread clearly shows, you're trying to do this work by asking questions about the things you realise you don't know. But what if you miss something because you simply have no idea it even exists, and just don't realise you don't know it?
If you hadn't had this cable joining issue to deal with when moving the cooker switch you wouldn't have come here to ask about it and then you wouldn't have found out about the rules for where buried cables can go, and you'd have ended up burying them where they should not be.
And that is dangerous - people really have been killed because a concealed cable where there should not have been one was drilled into. In a kitchen, BTW.
But you are not, because of the "unknown unknowns" problem.
Asking questions here can be a useful part of a learning process, but they are not a substitute for proper structured studying. The key term there is "learning process" - you cannot learn all the things you need to know just by asking questions here. It isn't structured enough - it won't provide you with a way to progress where each step builds on what you learned before.
Some blank plates have knockouts (more like cutouts!) on the edges to allow cables to exit. However, it probably makes more sense to take the cable out of the box in the normal way (buried, in the safe zone), and then bring it up to the surface, or ....
Indeed, but there's still that 'popping out of the wall' issue (this time for the incoming cable), so you probably might as well do what I've mentioned above (with a buried box).
Kind Regards, John
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http://www.screwfix.com/p/exterior-covers-pack-of-5/58284
They are larger than the face plate ( 4" x 4" ? ) so need holes drilled to fit to a back box but they do protect the cable at its most vulnerable point as it comes out of the box in the wall.
They are larger than the face plate ( 4" x 4" ? ) so need holes drilled to fit to a back box but they do protect the cable at its most vulnerable point as it comes out of the box in the wall.
I've never seen one of them ugly things in a kitchen.
I assume the idea is to have a cooker connection unit which will take care of the problem
I assume the idea is to have a cooker connection unit which will take care of the problem
http://www.screwfix.com/p/exterior-covers-pack-of-5/58284
They are larger than the face plate ( 4" x 4" ? ) so need holes drilled to fit to a back box but they do protect the cable at its most vulnerable point as it comes out of the box in the wall.
Bit ghastly for indoors!
Thank you John.
Ban All Sheds, I gracefully accept of course you have a point regarding the "unknown unknowns", however, the reasons I came onto the forum, and the questions I have asked here are not the full picture.
I fully intend, and always have intended, to get all works inspected and signed off before flicking the switch.
My technical background just gives me the confidence to tackle a lot of the work myself in terms of running cables and connecting things up etc. but it also enables me to recognise my limitatons and mitigate for them. (ie. inspection and sign off).
Also, I have additional reading, attending courses, etc. This forum is not my only source of information/training. That said, it has proved very helpful.
Ban All Sheds, I gracefully accept of course you have a point regarding the "unknown unknowns", however, the reasons I came onto the forum, and the questions I have asked here are not the full picture.
I fully intend, and always have intended, to get all works inspected and signed off before flicking the switch.
My technical background just gives me the confidence to tackle a lot of the work myself in terms of running cables and connecting things up etc. but it also enables me to recognise my limitatons and mitigate for them. (ie. inspection and sign off).
Also, I have additional reading, attending courses, etc. This forum is not my only source of information/training. That said, it has proved very helpful.
Thanks for the suggestions for ways to bring the cable to the surface. Ugliness is not really a problem as it's all out of sight at the back of a cupboard.
And yes, AndyPRK, there will be a cooker connection point at the end of the run, the suggestions here are for bringing the buried cable out of the wall and to the surface box that will house the cooker connection unit.
And yes, AndyPRK, there will be a cooker connection point at the end of the run, the suggestions here are for bringing the buried cable out of the wall and to the surface box that will house the cooker connection unit.
Indeed, but, as youy probably realise, the potential confusion arises because the thingy I suggested for bringing the cable to the surface (which I thought Andy was suggesting for the same purpose) IS a cooker connection plate' - so, if you adopted that approach, there would be two cooker connection plates - one for the cooker and one to bring that cable to the surface!
Kind Regards, John
So there are 2 issues.
How do you bring the cable to the surface under the counter for a surface run.
How do you put the cable back into the wall for the cooker connection back box.
Normally nothing cleaver is used. Either a hole or the cable comes out at 45°
How do you bring the cable to the surface under the counter for a surface run.
How do you put the cable back into the wall for the cooker connection back box.
Normally nothing cleaver is used. Either a hole or the cable comes out at 45°
I am getting confused regarding solutions to problems which do not exist.
Do it properly and run the cable to the connector position.
Surface boxes have knock-outs at the back.
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