You must not leave the cables and join new ones and then plaster over, nor route the new ones as shown.
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:walls
[EDIT]Wiki link corrected because some fool has been pointlessly restructuring it
[/EDIT]
Spur off cooker switch?
- Thread starter tonytinman
- Start date
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:walls
[EDIT]Wiki link corrected because some fool has been pointlessly restructuring it
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Which implies the location is not your own home. Working in someone else's property without the necessary skills and knowledge may have legal consequences if damage, harm or injury occurs as a result of your work not being to the required standard. it also applies if you own the property and rent it out to tenants.
Corrected ( I obviessly lack typing skills )
It does imply this ...unless you consider I might have a 4 week crossover period between properties while I fit the new kitchen.
It is true I don't have years of practical experience as a sparky but I do have the relevant training and 9 years experience as an electronic technician working daily on high voltage equipment. (30KV +)
I consider myself competent to do these things...
i. understand ohms law
ii. know how to join bits of wire together
iii. understand that electricity can be dangerous and recognise the point where I have to say "ok, this is now beyond me to complete safely. I need to get somebody in"
iv. not kill myself, or anybody else ...or start a fire.
I consider myself not very competent in these things...
i. plaster, bricks, floorboards
ii. being a sparky
I also understand people's concern when they think an idiot is letting themselves loose with a live wire.
Rest assured, I am competent enough to recognise where I am competent, and more importantly, where I am not.
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You must not leave the cables and join new ones and then plaster over, nor route the new ones as shown.
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:walls
The link doesn't seem to work.
What's the reasoning behind why it can't be configured exactly as it is now but just moving the switch 300mm to the right?
Thanks.
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:walls
The link doesn't seem to work.
What's the reasoning behind why it can't be configured exactly as it is now but just moving the switch 300mm to the right?
Thanks.
Cables should be in safe zones, so electricians know where cables are likely to be so that electricians don't drill into them.
hiding boxes like that, and no one will have a clue where the cables go.
A bit like the one your trying to trace
hiding boxes like that, and no one will have a clue where the cables go.
A bit like the one your trying to trace
It may be just a matter of your diagram not reflecting the actually reality of cable routing. Also, everything depends upon what 'configured exactly as it is now' actually means - the present situation may be non-compliant with current regulations.
BAS's point was that all buried cables must be in 'safe zones', which can be created by accessories, such as switches. In practice (as the link he provided, which works for me, should show) that means that the cables must be either horizontally or vertically in line with the switch (or any other visible accessories they are connected to) for their entire lengths. Your (probably 'idealised') diagram shows deviation from that requirement)
Kind Regards, John
Thanks. Exactly the sort of info I'm after.
So should the cooker circuit be entirely rewired from the CU?
Obviously, I want to do the minimum I have to, but if that's what it needs...
See my post above. It might be possible to get the cable into safe zones (by locating the switch etc. appropriately) without extensive rewiring.
Kind Regards, John
Can I put a box with a blank plate on where the existing switch is?
It's not bang in the middle of where the hob will be and is about 600mm above worktop height. I imagine it would sit somewhere to the side of the cooker hood chimney.
Then run directly down the wall to another inspection point below the worktop, then right to a cooker connection behind the oven unit?
Would this give enough visibility to the run of the cables?
It's not bang in the middle of where the hob will be and is about 600mm above worktop height. I imagine it would sit somewhere to the side of the cooker hood chimney.
Then run directly down the wall to another inspection point below the worktop, then right to a cooker connection behind the oven unit?
Would this give enough visibility to the run of the cables?
Quite simply, you haven't provided enough clear detail for anyone to comment on that. Can you take a photo of the wall/sockets/connections and draw the cable runs on it?
Assuming the existing setup is OK then that approach would in theory keep everything in safe zones.
Your getting the idea.
Learn about safe zones, and then see what you need to do to make it comply.
You can - and, provided that there is a cable join within the box, it would create a 'safe zone'. However, would the incoming cable be within that safe zone (horizontally or vertically alighed with the box).
As I've said, any arrangement is acceptable provided that the cable (if buried) runs in straight lines which are vertically or horizontally aligned with visible accessories. If the cable is visible (on the surface of the wall, not buried), it can go where you like.
Kind Regards, John
Thanks for everybody's help. I think I've got a good idea what to do now.
First job is to find out what the additional cable is for and, hopefully, disconnect.
Then I'll put in a connection box with a blank plate where the current switch is.
Run the cable in the wall to another connection box/inspection box below the worktop, then run at a right angle to behind the oven unit.
One last thing... I'm happy to run along the surface once I get below worktop level. Is it possible to get a box that will accept a buried cable from the top and run it out on the surface to the right?
Or can I just use a surface box and pop the cable out of the wall to go into the top of it?
Thanks!
First job is to find out what the additional cable is for and, hopefully, disconnect.
Then I'll put in a connection box with a blank plate where the current switch is.
Run the cable in the wall to another connection box/inspection box below the worktop, then run at a right angle to behind the oven unit.
One last thing... I'm happy to run along the surface once I get below worktop level. Is it possible to get a box that will accept a buried cable from the top and run it out on the surface to the right?
Or can I just use a surface box and pop the cable out of the wall to go into the top of it?
Thanks!
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