Spur off cooker switch?

Do it properly and run the cable to the connector position.
I think the issue is that there is a perceived need to go around corners, hence accessories needed to create safe zones.
Surface boxes have knock-outs at the back.
Good point! However, I would personally prefer not to use a surface box - so perhaps a flush box with the cooker outlet plate.

Kind Regards, John
 
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Page one I wrote this
Some investigation is required with regards to the extra set of cables, it could be a second cooking appliance, it could be for a socket, it could be for the extractor fan, so we need to solve that puzzle!

Ideally you would install a new length of cable between supply and new isolator and remove the existing box. But if you intend not to do that then you need to determine what the second set of cable are doing as it may require that isolation and that would then mean replacing that cable or configuring the circuit so the new isolator feeds back to the second set of cables, this could mean installing a second cable between new iso and the existing, then jointing up, you can use correctly rated terminal blocks and blank plate.
Then we need to conform to safe routing of cable and the required additional protection to buried cable less than 50mm in wall, so RCD or mechanical protection needs to be considered.
Although thanked, which is V much appreciated, it seems this info has been ignored. Investigate the circuit, you say you have some competence, show it. and read up of safe routing of cables, you have also mention routing trunking where a hob is, is this wise?

 
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Not quite sure which bit has been ignored.
I would imagine that PBoD is referring primarily to the investigation to determine what the 'mystery cable' actually does.

Apart from anything else, you might find that the cable in question is no longer required - in which case your task would become simpler/easier.

Kind Regards, John
 
Ah yes. Sure. The rogue twin and earth was supplying a socket used for the washing machine. I've taken that out so all I've got to worry about now is the 10mm cooker feed.

I have the twin and earth popping out halfway down the wall where the old cooker isolation switch was. It's just in line with the location of the new hob so need to move that 300mm to the right.

I've just been reading the oven installation manual and it says the cooker connection should not be more than 130mm above floor level. Does this seem right?? I'm wondering if it's a misprint. I was hoping to just run the cooker load cable directly out to the right from the switch, which is about eye level, to behind the tall unit housing the oven.

Also, can I drop from 10mm to 6mm? There's a 32A CB at the CU.
 
I've just been reading the oven installation manual and it says the cooker connection should not be more than 130mm above floor level. Does this seem right?? I'm wondering if it's a misprint.
It certainly sounds very odd to me!
Also, can I drop from 10mm to 6mm? There's a 32A CB at the CU.
Sure, but it's never totally nice to have cable size changing along the route - if not only just in case someone in the future ever wants the full 10mm² - although goodness knows what for! 10mm² is really OTT for any domestic cooker.

Kind Regards, John
 
should not be more than 130mm above floor level.


Maybe specific for that oven, as to where there is clearance behind it.

Its nice to put the cooker connection unit in the cupboard next to the oven to avoid clashing and directly below the cooker switch makes it easy to find
 

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