Confused about Bosch oven instructions

[monkey73]

I am having a new Bosch single oven delivered tomorrow. Currently, I have a 32A MCB feeding a cooker isolation point. From there, there is a direct wire to the electric hob and another wire to a 13A FCU which the old oven was connected to.

I purchased a new hob and oven with the intention of replacing them directly. Now, having looked at the manual for the oven online, it says "Do not connect the appliance using a 13A plug or protect it with a 13A fuse". Unless im reading the wrong manual, I can't understand this. The oven is rated to draw 2.35kW, to me that equates to about 10A. Why should I not connect it to a 13A FCU with the existing wiring?

And if not, what can I do to allow safe connection?

Thanks

 

[monkey73]

And just to add, the hob is 6.2kW. With the oven that is a total of 8550W, so around 35-36A, but am I right to assume that will be ok when taking diversity into account?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Once the output rating exceeds 2kW, a lot of manufactures request appliances to be hardwired, but often there is an allowance for 13A FCU.

Do you have the full details of this appliance or a link the manufacturers instructions?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

And just to add, the hob is 6.2kW. With the oven that is a total of 8550W, so around 35-36A, but am I right to assume that will be ok when taking diversity into account?

We can calculate diversity in to the circuit, and doing that would very likely bring the cable rating down and the device used to protect and load the circuit.
So to comply to requirements and the manufacturer, it may be a solution to use a dual outlet plate.

 

[monkey73]

I've just looked at the old hob actually and that is rated at 7kW on the device itself, so more than the new one, so I think we are safe on that front.

In terms of the new oven, the model is HBN331E2B. Putting that into the Bosch manual site, it gives loads of results, https://portalcn.bsh-partner.com/portal(bD1kZSZjPTAwOQ==)/PORTALFRAME.HTM

They all seem similar with slight variances, but most seem to indicate the requirement as stated in my OP.

Thanks for your reply

 

[Belboz]

....

 

[Taylortwocities]

. Now, having looked at the manual for the oven online, it says "Do not connect the appliance using a 13A plug or protect it with a 13A fuse".

As PBD says: It is important to follow the maker's instructions. So you need a dual appliance outlet plate, or swop the FCU for a straight connection point.

As yourt MCB is 32A you should note that the cable from your cooker point to the old (FCU) should be at least 4mm².

But a http://www.alertelectrical.com/prod/1022/click-45a-dual-cooker-outlet-plate-prw217 would be the easiest solution

 

[monkey73]

. Now, having looked at the manual for the oven online, it says "Do not connect the appliance using a 13A plug or protect it with a 13A fuse".

As PBD says: It is important to follow the maker's instructions. So you need a dual appliance outlet plate, or swop the FCU for a straight connection point.

As yourt MCB is 32A you should note that the cable from your cooker point to the old (FCU) should be at least 4mm².

But a http://www.alertelectrical.com/prod/1022/click-45a-dual-cooker-outlet-plate-prw217 would be the easiest solution

Ok the cable going from the cooker point to both the hob and the FCU appear to be at least 4mm2 and judging by the measurements here: //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:cable_types:flatpvccables They actually appear to be probably 6mm2 cables.

With regards to the exisiting FCU, it is some distance from the cooker point and the cable is well buried in between. If I was to replace that with a non fused connection point, what specs do I need?

If I use the device you linked to, where would I place that in the circuit? Would I then have a single cable from the cooker point going to the new device and then cables from there, one large one for the hob and one smaller one for the oven?

Thanks

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

As the MI states you cannot use a 13Amp FCU, you will not be able to use a FCU (with or without neon). But you can use a cooker control unit (switch/isolator), they should be rated no less than the device protecting the circuit, so you have 32A MCB, the cooker control unit would be rated (not fused at) no less than 32A, they commonly come rated at 45A, which is sufficient for this application.

Do not confuse a FCU with a CCU.

 

[monkey73]

Sorry I think there was a bit of confusion in my last message. I am aware of the difference but I wasn't clear. So I have the cooker connection unit on the wall, from here there is a cable to a 13A FCU, and a cable direct to the Hob.

Im not doing anything with the CCU, what I wanted to know was could i replace the 13A FCU with a non fused connection unit in order to avoid having a 13A fuse in the circuit (as indicated in the MI). Or, do I need to wire a cable directly from the Cooker Connection Unit to the new oven and bypass the existing FCU completely? Option 1 would be much easier if possible, otherwise it means burying cable which is not ideal.

Alternatively, this was suggested: http://www.alertelectrical.com/prod/1022/click-45a-dual-cooker-outlet-plate-prw217

How would that fit in with the circuit I have described above?

 

[Aragorn84]

Why not simply replace the FCU with a 20A DP switch?

Or even just a flex outlet plate?


The wiring surely does not need changed...

 

[monkey73]

Why not simply replace the FCU with a 20A DP switch?

Or even just a flex outlet plate?


The wiring surely does not need changed...

Yes that is exactly the thing I was looking to do. I didnt know what the correct rating needed to be for the switch or flex outlet plate. So 20A is fine and not too high?

 

[monkey73]

Here's a quick and crude drawing of my plans based on what i thin kis now fine to do. Does it look ok? Is any of this notifiable work?

Untitled

• monkey73
• 4 Aug 2014
• 1

 

[monkey73]

Can anyone confirm my diagram as I need to get the bits tonight for fitting.

Thanks

 

[AndyPRK]

a picture would me much better to understand