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No, treat the rotten bits and leave in situ.
Need to replace a couple of joists...
- Thread starter Screech20
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Ok thanks. The reason I ask was because of this earlier advice...
Cheers
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Yes, hence the need to treat the timber first.
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I've used this before. You can drill holes and inject it, as well as applying to the surface. Bearing in mind that what the OP has looks like wet rot (not dry rot), so once the area is dried out and the source of damp removed, it it's not going to spread.
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Ronseal-Multi-purpose-Universal-Wood-Treatment-5L/p/147142
Cheers
Richard
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Ronseal-Multi-purpose-Universal-Wood-Treatment-5L/p/147142
Cheers
Richard
Screech20,
nowhere did I suggest going under the floor to the right - see what I advised in my first post on monday.
If we had approached that job we would have had it done and dusted in an hour - you are not a professional but dont make a molehill into a mountain.
Your next difficulty is going to be providing bearing for the new boards - why did you cut the old floor in the middle of a bay?
Anyhow, you will have to provide a new bearing joist or cut the boards back on the next joist along - do you have any power tools?
nowhere did I suggest going under the floor to the right - see what I advised in my first post on monday.
If we had approached that job we would have had it done and dusted in an hour - you are not a professional but dont make a molehill into a mountain.
Your next difficulty is going to be providing bearing for the new boards - why did you cut the old floor in the middle of a bay?
Anyhow, you will have to provide a new bearing joist or cut the boards back on the next joist along - do you have any power tools?
Wet rot spores in an unventilated compartment will continue to affect the timber.
Simply drilling holes and using an anti-fungal chemical will do nothing for deep seated wet rot.
How long do you suggest leaving the floor open for the deep seated, & perhaps hidden, wet rot to dry out - a month, six months?
The practice has always been to cut out wet rot such as the OP has - not fool around creating further problems and more work by sistering on to rotted wood.
Simply drilling holes and using an anti-fungal chemical will do nothing for deep seated wet rot.
How long do you suggest leaving the floor open for the deep seated, & perhaps hidden, wet rot to dry out - a month, six months?
The practice has always been to cut out wet rot such as the OP has - not fool around creating further problems and more work by sistering on to rotted wood.
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You did actually mention replacing the whole joist depending on the span, which wasn't an option due to limited space.
This is when I can up with replacing the joist upto the next support, but in the parts so that I could slide them into place.
I have actually had to do this one to one of them as after propping it up and starting to cut it back, It ended up to be rotted through the middle pretty much up to the wall.
Can you see a problem with it done like that? (My last 'sketch')
It didn't actually take very long and they slid into place nicely.
Probably quicker than drilling, bolting and propping.
So much of the floor has already been hacked about, split then 'repaired' etc, ivecdecided it's all coming up to be replaced.
Cheers
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At least you'll know it's all good. Sounds like it was worse than it looked in the photo.
Cheers
Richard
Cheers
Richard
"Sounds like it was worse than it looked ..." yes, its known as hidden decay, and people with experience know this and dont give tomfoolery "advice" on the basis of happy clappy ignorance which would have given the OP further work & expense.
You actually state that doing the job the correct way would be to escalate it "out of proportion".
The idea is to give sound advice not bizzare leaps in the dark or whatever strange notions happen to pop into your head.
You actually state that doing the job the correct way would be to escalate it "out of proportion".
The idea is to give sound advice not bizzare leaps in the dark or whatever strange notions happen to pop into your head.
I worked on a Grade 2* house last year which had a few rotted rafters, but the chippies had to leave them in and just add some new rafters, as the LBO wanted the old ones to remain for future veiwing. The chippies didn't think much of the idea, but had to leave them in after treating them.
What is your point? Grade 2* or shed at the bottom of the garden, the sistered members will be contaminated if any rot, other than surface infection, remains.
Presumably the rafters you referred to were sistered?
Did you happen to notice any hidden rot being covered up or ignored?
Presumably the rafters you referred to were sistered?
Did you happen to notice any hidden rot being covered up or ignored?
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"vinn", it's a shame that yet another change of user ID (and supposed country) hasn't made you any less rude and ignorant to anyone who doesn't share your opinions.
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Vinn,
The rafters were really well rotted with wet rot, although I don't know which type. This was caused by a long standing roof leak in various places.
The thinking by EH is that with wet rot it's confined to wet areas of timber, so a new piece of treated timber won't be affected by a rotten piece.
The rotten rafters were also dried and treated. They will go to great lengths to keep old timbers in place.
However in normal work BRE advice is to remove any structurally damaged timber with wet rot.
The rafters were really well rotted with wet rot, although I don't know which type. This was caused by a long standing roof leak in various places.
The thinking by EH is that with wet rot it's confined to wet areas of timber, so a new piece of treated timber won't be affected by a rotten piece.
The rotten rafters were also dried and treated. They will go to great lengths to keep old timbers in place.
However in normal work BRE advice is to remove any structurally damaged timber with wet rot.
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