Hanging Heavy TV
- Thread starter joec1985
- Start date
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You don't mention what the dry wall is attached too and how?
think these should do it
http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/tv-and...6w&gclsrc=ds&dclid=CPbNns_60dMCFcIi0wodQHAJKw
http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/tv-and...6w&gclsrc=ds&dclid=CPbNns_60dMCFcIi0wodQHAJKw
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Not sure if you have done it yet
Personally I think these are better, careful there are not wires in there, especially if theirs sockets or switches nearby.
There is likely wooden uprights usually 600mm centres, running from floor to ceiling, that will also give a secure fixing
Not sure if you have done it yet
Personally I think these are better, careful there are not wires in there, especially if theirs sockets or switches nearby.
There is likely wooden uprights usually 600mm centres, running from floor to ceiling, that will also give a secure fixing
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we've just done the same thing, we mounted a 42" smart tv onto a stud wall and used these
https://www.amazon.co.uk/snaptoggle...id=1494101535&sr=8-2&keywords=toggle+bolts+m6
Its a solid as a rock u could swing off it, the other toggle bolts suggested above were quite fiddly to use, as u had to press the two toggles together down to the screw before u put them in the hole,
the snap toggles have the drill bit supplied, as u put them in the hole, pull the white sticks forward whilst pushing the round bit into the hole, snap the long white sticks off and there u have it, put the screw in and hey presto its done.
Juliex
https://www.amazon.co.uk/snaptoggle...id=1494101535&sr=8-2&keywords=toggle+bolts+m6
Its a solid as a rock u could swing off it, the other toggle bolts suggested above were quite fiddly to use, as u had to press the two toggles together down to the screw before u put them in the hole,
the snap toggles have the drill bit supplied, as u put them in the hole, pull the white sticks forward whilst pushing the round bit into the hole, snap the long white sticks off and there u have it, put the screw in and hey presto its done.
Juliex
mine has a large metal plate, with numerous fixing holes, to go on the wall. You are pretty certain to be able to catch more than one stud, and the other screws can fix into plasterboard to prevent any movement.
It is helpful if you have the Special Tool for locating studs.
Some pathetic houses are built with foam-core plasterboard panels and no studs.
It is helpful if you have the Special Tool for locating studs.
Some pathetic houses are built with foam-core plasterboard panels and no studs.
ours was a long plate with up to 8 spaces in the top and 8 in the bottom to fix the bracket to the wall
we hit a stud a couple of times, but we just moved onto the next space, we used 4 on top and bottom of bracket in the end, and its solid
would definately use the toggle ones again
we tapped the wall and the hollow or thud sound told us if there was a stud or not, not technical but done the job lol
Juliex
we hit a stud a couple of times, but we just moved onto the next space, we used 4 on top and bottom of bracket in the end, and its solid
would definately use the toggle ones again
we tapped the wall and the hollow or thud sound told us if there was a stud or not, not technical but done the job lol
Juliex
R
rules&rulers
Maybe they only had toggles !
Well they got the job done,nice to hear the originator being polite and getting back with their results.(wish more would get back thou)
Happy viewing.
Well they got the job done,nice to hear the originator being polite and getting back with their results.(wish more would get back thou)
Happy viewing.
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I'm not a fan of those myself, if you need to take the bracket down to paint the wall, the threaded bit falls down inside the wall and you have to buy some more! I much prefer this style...
The downsides of these is that you need to know beforehand whether the wall is single or double plasterboarded, to be able to buy the right ones and you really ought to use the setting tool with them, so more costly initially. I've found that with the M6 ones, they will clench up properly without the setting tool, because the flange and the spikes are so much bigger than on the M4 and M5 versions.
Indeed, just a single number 10 screw has a shear pull-out load of 687lbs (311kg in English!!
) when screwed into softwood.edit: they don't seem to give the length of the screw though!
Gaz
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Used them as an apprentice, but I had the setting tool you mentioned, when i tried them a while back without the tool I pushed so hard the thing went through the board.I'm not a fan of those myself, if you need to take the bracket down to paint the wall, the threaded bit falls down inside the wall and you have to buy some more! I much prefer this style...
The downsides of these is that you need to know beforehand whether the wall is single or double plasterboarded, to be able to buy the right ones and you really ought to use the setting tool with them, so more costly initially. I've found that with the M6 ones, they will clench up properly without the setting tool, because the flange and the spikes are so much bigger than on the M4 and M5 versions.
Indeed, just a single number 10 screw has a shear pull-out load of 687lbs (311kg in English!!
Gaz
Though must admit they are ideal for putting a permanent thread in the wall.
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I wish they didn't have that dual Phillips/slotted head. Torx or Allen would be so much better and prevent that happening. Even just a normal Phillips or pozi would be better!
The M6 ones I last used were actually to put a threaded rod into with a nut and washer, they are so strong you can really sense how much they will take when using a spanner, I'd like to find out the horizontal pull-out force, but they always give the shear pull out strength, because it's the higher figure always.
I did clench them up with the cr@ppy screw provided initially though (just to clarify with my previous post about them clenching up fine without the setting tool).
Gaz
When all is said and done there's no single perfect fixing for drywall/plasterboard; each has its pros and cons. The Achilles heel with all of them is where or not the install of the fitting goes well, and then the strength of the wall itself. There's also the quality of the fixing itself. I've had versions of the hollow wall anchors that wouldn't clench up just using a screwdriver. The result is a wrecked fitting hole as the fixing spins during tightening.
In the end it's what works best for each application and the preference of the user.
In the end it's what works best for each application and the preference of the user.
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