F1 fernox filter

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I have had a nightmare with these filters.

I cleaned one out the other week for a friend and when i came to screw the top back on the thing wouldn't form a good seal.

I have seen the videos now which show you how to clean them out without taking the top off, but i have done and the thing is still leaking.

I used a new rubber seal which came with the filter, but it is still leaking apparently. I have just been told today and they are using a towel to keep it dry at the moment.

I will go and have a look next week, but how do i stop it leaking ? I thought they were hand tight only. Can i nip it up any tighter ? Seems they are a pretty bad product. I have cleaned out these filters before, but not had this problem.
 
Is it the black plastic TF1 Total Filter? If so spin off the top and use a little silicone grease to make the plastic threads slip easier. When they get older the threads bind before you can get the top down enough to put enough pressure on the seal. Careful not to overtighten as that can wear the threads making them troublesome to loose and tighten again.

Try and avoid taking the top off of these if possible. Shut off the main flow valves, take the magnet out, open up the bottom valve and the bleed valve and drain the filter, nip up the bleed valve and then open the main inlet valve a little to flush some water through it till it runs clear out the bottom.
 
First of all it needs to be more than hand tight.If you’ve changed the seal it’s one of two things. It simply isn’t tight enough (they do actually come with a plastic spanner) so apply top hand tight then simply knip it up with plastic spanner that’s provided. Hopefully you haven’t cross threaded and caused permanent damage to the thread or seal.
 
Afraid I have to disagree, any wet rubber seal shouldn't need any more than moderate pressure to work effectively, overtightening just fattens the seal too much and IMO can actually create leaks.
I have found that on these and other plastic filters with removable tops that they don't need any more than a good firm hand tighten and a little silicon grease on the threads and seal to work correctly. It also makes servicing a year later much much easier and usually without having to replace the seal. Most DIY'ers use the spanner to tighten the top down too tight initially making them a nightmare to remove as the plastic threads jam if they're overtightened and the seal is overcompressed which then means it must always be replaced when removed.
Sometimes the spanner is needed to undo the top as over time and heat cycles the threads can lock themselves, hence why it's a good idea to lubricate the threads just a little before fitting.
 
Afraid I have to disagree, any wet rubber seal shouldn't need any more than moderate pressure to work effectively, overtightening just fattens the seal too much and IMO can actually create leaks.
I have found that on these and other plastic filters with removable tops that they don't need any more than a good firm hand tighten and a little silicon grease on the threads and seal to work correctly. It also makes servicing a year later much much easier and usually without having to replace the seal. Most DIY'ers use the spanner to tighten the top down too tight initially making them a nightmare to remove as the plastic threads jam if they're overtightened and the seal is overcompressed which then means it must always be replaced when removed.
Sometimes the spanner is needed to undo the top as over time and heat cycles the threads can lock themselves, hence why it's a good idea to lubricate the threads just a little before fitting.

I’ve fit well over 50 of this particular TF1 magnet filters and this particular lid is quite big,so is hard to get your hand around. This is one of the reasons why it comes with the plastic spanner.
Plus, with expansion and contraction of the plastic from the filter getting hot then cold that little extra knip is very necessary. I’d usually agree with you about rubber sealed water tight fittings being only hand tight but not in this case. Like I said in my post earlier put on hand tight then “knip” with spanner.
Let me ask you this, if you’d just cleaned one of these filters, placed it on hand tight and it leaked you’d “knip” it up first wouldn’t you?
Of course you would. ;)
 
No oring seal needs to be graunched up. Especially on these plastic abominations.
I agree. Problems occur from over tightening.
But in this case it seems to me that the problem here is from it being not tight enough.He did change the seal and screwed the lid on hand tight. Unsure what pressure could be in that particular system (zero pressure if the wet towel soaking up the leak has any indication) but its possible that just under 3 bar could potentially be in it then that extra little knip is nessacary IMO it certainly wouldn’t flatten the seal.
 
I have been using a mechanics rubber grip which is used to unscrew oil filters.

Pretty good on these filter tops.

The silicone sounds a good idea. Would a silicone spray be ok to use or would I have to buy the grease?

Reading last night that some ptfe tape might be an idea as well.
 
I have been using a mechanics rubber grip which is used to unscrew oil filters.

Pretty good on these filter tops.

The silicone sounds a good idea. Would a silicone spray be ok to use or would I have to buy the grease?

Reading last night that some ptfe tape might be an idea as well.
I’d buy the grease. If it’s still leaking after you replaced the seal and tightened it enough and used grease then PTFE is your last resort. Sounds like it’s been crossed threaded if it still leaks.
 
Yeah that might be fine, never used it but if it's for pipes seals then chances are it's similar.

Silicone grease is the stuff I always have and every seal and plastic thread gets a little of it, makes life and future servicing an awful lot easier.

Would a silicone spray be ok to use
Spray some in the cap then use your finger to smear it on if that's all you have, the actual grease is much better though
 
Let me ask you this, if you’d just cleaned one of these filters, placed it on hand tight and it leaked you’d “knip” it up first wouldn’t you?

If I had to use the spanner to remove the lid for any reason, then it would usually call for a new seal and hopefully the customer would still have the spare one. TBH though I wouldn't never remove the lid on these plastic filters in the first place just to clean it out, can all be done without taking the lid off and it's just asking for trouble.;)

I have always found that with a little grease on the threads and seal I can get the marks on the top to line up without using the spanner and have never had an issue with it being watertight.
 
If I had to use the spanner to remove the lid for any reason, then it would usually call for a new seal and hopefully the customer would still have the spare one. TBH though I wouldn't never remove the lid on these plastic filters in the first place just to clean it out, can all be done without taking the lid off and it's just asking for trouble.;)

I have always found that with a little grease on the threads and seal I can get the marks on the top to line up without using the spanner and have never had an issue with it being watertight.
Your right removing the lid is asking for trouble. Most of the times the systems I work on are old I like to see all the muck on the filter magnet. Sometimes it can be very surprising.
 
Sorted it out today.

I think the silicone really helped the plastic to screw more freely. I also added a bit of ptfe tape. All sealed and no leaks with the heating on. Not had a call in the day, so assume it is all ok.
 

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