Ikea bathroom LED mirror cabinet - wire chafed and broke

[matei]

Hi all,

About two years ago we had an Ikea bathroom mirror cabinet installed as part of an overall bathroom remodel, one of the ones with the LEDs along the sides.

Unfortunately it has stopped working, it appears that the opening/closing movement caused one of the wires to chafe, the blue one - I imagine this is neutral? Below are a few pics - the good (intact) side and the broken side.

Is there any way to fix this - i.e. extend the wire with something like a push-in wire connector or a crimp?

 

[SFK]

Matei,
LEDs normally need a transformer (or more accurately called a Driver) to change the voltage from 220V to some lower voltage/current, perhaps 12V.
This Driver will be a small box (like you get to charge your phone).

Do you know if his cable is before or after this transformer/Driver?
Do you know if his cable is carrying 220V (mains) or 12V supply for the LED?

(Also- have you properly isolated this from the mains so that if it is 220V you do not electrocute yourself/others?)
SFK

 

[conny]

0.75mm is certainy capable of carrying 230v AC Driver may be part of the light fitting inside the door section.

 

[matei]

Hi - the driver is sitting in the upper middle of the cabinet itself, these appear to feed out from there.

From what I understand after having scoured the internet, it is a design defect that Ikea has made no effort to address. The cable broke not too long - a little over a year - after we installed the cabinet. I've just put off looking for a solution as... well... there are a million other things to sort out first!

The cable itself is rather stiff, not surprised it broke so quickly.

 

[SFK]

Matai,
Ok, so then it is likely 12V in that cable (or perhaps around 12V to 48V current limited).
They have used 2 Core 0.75mm2 PVC coated Flex cable.

I expect that the issue is that the outer PVC sheaf cannot take that many bends before it breaks, the tight curvature and that strange S shape that they have forced the cable to take is also adding a rotation into the bend, further increasing the stress on the outer coating. As you say, doomed to failure.

Solutions. uhmmm none jump to mind.
Cable should not be forced to make that type of bend so it is not as simple as changing the cable with a new one. #
I was initially was going to suggest using for example https://www.screwfix.com/p/nexans-twin-flat-flexible-cable-2192y-2-core-0-75mm-x-10m-white/7135t
But this will only be an improvement if this is more flexible than the one Ikea used (which I cannot garentee).

SFK

 

[matei]

Matai,
Ok, so then it is likely 12V in that cable (or perhaps around 12V to 48V current limited).
They have used 2 Core 0.75mm2 PVC coated Flex cable.

I expect that the issue is that the outer PVC sheaf cannot take that many bends before it breaks, the tight curvature and that strange S shape that they have forced the cable to take is also adding a rotation into the bend, further increasing the stress on the outer coating. As you say, doomed to failure.

Solutions. uhmmm none jump to mind.
Cable should not be forced to make that type of bend so it is not as simple as changing the cable with a new one. #
I was initially was going to suggest using for example https://www.screwfix.com/p/nexans-twin-flat-flexible-cable-2192y-2-core-0-75mm-x-10m-white/7135t
But this will only be an improvement if this is more flexible than the one Ikea used (which I cannot garentee).

SFK

Thanks for the idea - it is a good starting point. It is probably better to give that a bash than to sit there with no light in the bathroom. Well - there is a light but it is quite blinding late at night, these were nice as they are a bit softer.

 

[SFK]

As this is 12V in the cable there is also a bodge it method.
Buy some heatshrink:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-x-100m...=item2c81a4e3df:g:6FoAAOxyXHpSRriA:rk:10:pf:0

Switch off mains.
Strip back the White PVC.
From blue cable remove 5mm of blue sheaf from the two ends of the cable.
Slide some sheatshirink onto blue cable (so that it is away from bare copper)
Twist bare cables together, and then solder together (being careful not to heat the heatshrink).
Move heatshrink over soldered area so it also covers as much of the blue sheef on each side as possible.
Heat heatshrink with hairdryer, paint striper gun.
As said this is a bodge, but will work.

Sfk

 

[matei]

As this is 12V in the cable there is also a bodge it method.
Buy some heatshrink:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-x-100m...=item2c81a4e3df:g:6FoAAOxyXHpSRriA:rk:10:pf:0

Switch off mains.
Strip back the White PVC.
From blue cable remove 5mm of blue sheaf from the two ends of the cable.
Slide some sheatshirink onto blue cable (so that it is away from bare copper)
Twist bare cables together, and then solder together (being careful not to heat the heatshrink).
Move heatshrink over soldered area so it also covers as much of the blue sheef on each side as possible.
Heat heatshrink with hairdryer, paint striper gun.
As said this is a bodge, but will work.

Sfk

Awesome - thanks for the steps.

I've got some black heatshrink of various sizes left over from some electric guitar repairwork, likewise some solder. SOunds like a task for this weekend.

 

[SFK]

Pleasure.
Still hate the look of that 2 axis 'S' shaped twist in the cable. It is just asking for stress failure when it moves.
SFLE

 

[winston1]

From what I understand after having scoured the internet, it is a design defect that Ikea has made no effort to address.

In that case ask Ikea to sort it out. If they refuse take 'em to the small claims court. Goods sold must be fit for purpose, of mechantable quality, and last a reasonable time, typically quoted a six years in England, five years in Scotland. Any 1 year guarantee is in addition to these rights and can be disregarded in this case as it is over a year old.