Belfast sink cutting worktop

[denso13]

Depends whether you intepret a 10mm over hang on the outside or inside edge.

Are you on a wind up? It's obvious what means as shown by your sketch C and by the completed pictures you posted.

 

[Dave Thornley]

No wind up. Attached 2 photos of both possibilities. And there obviously is a 3rd one having the worktop flush with the sink. So no is not obvious!

 

[denso13]

The drip groove would be useless if the worktop does not overhang the sink.

You can fit the worktop any way you like but the instructions are clear in their meaning, to me at least.

 

[Lower]

i have never seen a Belfast sink top flush with the worktop unless it has a rim and is surface mount.

The worktop should overhang the sink. How much by is up to you.

 

[Madrab]

I have WOCA worktop oil which I was going to use

It looks ok but never seen it finish wise. Every time I have worked with butchers block/oak/hardwood worktops and there are a few, I use Liberons Tung Oil. It's a natural nut oil and is extremely good, has no additives or solvents like a lot of other oils. It does take a fair amount of work and time but the finish is really worth it.

 

[opps]

Thinking about it, I have only ever fitted one Belfast sink. I probably went for about 5mm overhang. Why? I followed the profile of the sink with a router. I did add some gaffer tape to the inside of the sink to boost the distance of the overhang.

I don't totally understand the need for a drip channel if the underside has been siliconed/sealed properly. I am happy to be educated though. That said, my (often flawed) intuition leads me to think that in the absence of a drip channel, the overhang should be kept to a minimum.

 

[Dave Thornley]

It looks ok but never seen it finish wise. Every time I have worked with butchers block/oak/hardwood worktops and there are a few, I use Liberons Tung Oil. It's a natural nut oil and is extremely good, has no additives or solvents like a lot of other oils. It does take a fair amount of work and time but the finish is really worth it.


I will look into that. Hope there is some about few weeks ago could not get danish oil, well not less than 5L so had to make my own.

 

[Dave Thornley]

Thinking about it, I have only ever fitted one Belfast sink. I probably went for about 5mm overhang. Why? I followed the profile of the sink with a router. I did add some gaffer tape to the inside of the sink to boost the distance of the overhang.

I don't totally understand the need for a drip channel if the underside has been siliconed/sealed properly. I am happy to be educated though. That said, my (often flawed) intuition leads me to think that in the absence of a drip channel, the overhang should be kept to a minimum.

Think is a bit belt and braces like a window cill.

 

[Dave Thornley]

i have never seen a Belfast sink top flush with the worktop unless it has a rim and is surface mount.

The worktop should overhang the sink. How much by is up to you.

Well I have seen pics, one posted of the overhang being negative.

 

[Madrab]

I wouldn't ever use danish oil on a real wood worktop. It's full of solvents, resins, varnishes and other oils and it dries really quickly which means it only coats the top of the wood and doesn't soak into it, which is what wood needs to last IMO.

If you want the wood to last and to stay springy and water resistant, only use oil that takes at least a day to dry and is a pure oil with no other additives. Regular maintenance is also advised, rub the wood down lightly once a year with a green scourer pad soaked in oil and apply another coat.

 

[Dave Thornley]

I used the danish oil on a beam would not consider it for a worktop.

 

[opps]

Think is a bit belt and braces like a window cill.

I still don't get the belt and braces thing though. In my head it makes sense along the grain but not when it is cross grain. In my (addled) head the drip channel increases the risk of sitting/standing water. Why is it any better than a smaller over hang that is sufficiently siliconed/sealed?

 

[opps]

I used the danish oil on a beam would not consider it for a worktop.

Danish oil is fine for worktops but it is far from maintainace free. Leave a loaf of bread in a plastic bag, the colours will leach in to the oil, but it is a suitable finish.

 

[denso13]

In my (addled) head the drip channel increases the risk of sitting/standing water.

The channel is on the underside to stop water tracking along the worktop. I don't think standing water is a danger.

 

[Madrab]

Danish oil is fine for worktops but it is far from maintainace free. Leave a loaf of bread in a plastic bag, the colours will leach in to the oil, but it is a suitable finish.

The joiner/cabinet maker who gave me the low down would disagree with you there, seems a large amount of the Danish Oil that's on the market these days uses dryers/solvents that can have a level of heavy metal content but once the oil cures and the dryers evaporate it's considered food safe, personally I'd avoid anything like that, I wouldn't take the chance. They also tend to contain cheaper linseed and veg based oil mixes rather than better quality oils so again wouldn't recommend it.