Great - thanks for all your help.
I was thinking of going for a Worcester Greenstar 30i System?
Any advice/recommendations?
I don't get that. The valve was already at 5 on your earlier pics, and with the phial out it doesn't know the cylinder temperature.I've turned up the thermostatic valve to 5 and the hot water is ok.
I don't get that. The valve was already at 5 on your earlier pics, and with the phial out it doesn't know the cylinder temperature.
My guess is the cylinder only gets heat when the boiler fires because one of the roomstats is calling. If the weather where you are has cooled off a bit (it has where I live) that might account for the higher HW temperature.
Its currently an unvented system (no tank in the loft).That's sounds a good choice.... depending on the size of your house you may not need it so big.
Go for new cylinder and controls as well.
If you have the pressure then unvented would be best and lose the tank in the loft
Worcester Greenstar 30i System
Sorry - it was 4.5 originally and I moved to 5. The pic I sent yesterday must've been after I moved it.
The previous owners mentioned they turn the thermostats right down in the summer. If that's the case then and what you're saying is right surely there'd be no hot water.
Its currently an unvented system (no tank in the loft).
Details about the house
- 3 stories including converted attic
- 1 bathtub
- 3 showers (2 mechanical and 1 electrical)
- 4 toilets
- 5 sinks including kitchen sink
So you think its just the condensate conveyor then?would be very surprised if it needs a heat exchanger, the flue conveyor will be split very easy job
Thanks - I'll get that seen to. Hopefully they won't charge €400 (swear stuff is a lot more expensive here than UK).yes will be the conveyor, very common fault, easily changed
I'm sure ianmcd knows what he's talking about.
After fixing that, I would make quite sure there is a bypass pipe (from somewhere on the pump discharge to the boiler return pipe) and then put a live feed on the terminal which starts the pump and boiler. (make sure it needs 230 volt, get a sparky in if necessary). Then the cylinder should get hot.
If the valve is OK (from the pic perhaps the capillary is cut off, but it's hard to tell) cut a strip out of the foam insulation about 1/3 up from the bottom, and insert the phial touching the cylinder wall. Need to do a bit of patching up!
All being well, you could then rig up a switch for the boiler. Switch on for about an hour each morning, should be enough hot water for the day. You can check how long it takes for the valve to close to adjust the time. Add a timer in future if it seems a good idea.
Your system should last for years.
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