Is it the same for architrave? If the jobs aren't spot on what filler toupret wood filler or caulk?
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Why so shocked? He did say second fix - so 16g or 18g, although unless you are doing loads of them a gun does seem a bit OTT. Most of the guys I know use a 2nd fix nail gun in conjunction with Mitre Mate (or similar) for architraves. No need for any grip adhesive.Nailgun for archs? .
Why so shocked? He did say second fix - so 16g or 18g, although unless you are doing loads of them a gun does seem a bit OTT. Most of the guys I know use a 2nd fix nail gun in conjunction with Mitre Mate (or similar) for architraves. No need for any grip adhesive.
At one time we did this job with very small oval nails and punched under afterwards before filling with linseed putty (painted softwoods) or Brummer stopping (hardwoods). Some guys favoured panel pins with a rampin to set them instead of hammer and oval nails. If using a nailer just put the nails in straight
OP: You do know about the need to scribe inside corners, don't you? Also, before starting temporarily pin a short piece of architrave to the casing/lining and offer up a small square cut piece of skirting to it just to make sure that the skirting doesn't sit above the architrave. If it will be painted Toupret is fine
2nd fix nailers are for interior work only. The thin nails they fire are too flimsy for timber exposed to wind and weather as well as rotting out quickly when used on treated timbersI guess 2nd fix nail gun can be used on fences too or is that 1st fix one?
Architraves, something like 1-1/2in bright steel ovals, driven with a 12 to 16oz hammer. Alternatively, in your case (sporadic use) I'd suggest sticking with Foxhole's advice and using low expansion foam - sparingly. Otherwise you need to know what the exact composition of the wall beneath the skirting is, whether or not there are timber wedges in the wall which can be reused, etc. Foam, whilst more expensive, is a lot more idiot proof! Just use it sparingly.Out of interest if I dont buy a nail gun can I hammer them in for skirting and architraves? What length and type of nails should I buy if i do this?
The architraves pretty much always stand proud or are flush with the skirtings. If not then you either have to pack out the architraves so they sit proud, or you need to terminate both the skirting and the architrave in a plinth block, although TBH I always think they look pretentious in a modern house (in a tall ceilinged Victorian or Edwardian home with high skirtings, however, it is somewhat different)When you say put architrave next to skirting are you referring to the thickness so that one doesn't stand proud of the other when butted up?
plinth block
Looks like newly plastered plasterboard behind skirting I guess. I'll pass on 2nd fix nail gun. A lot of money for something just used on skirting and arcs. Use my hammer. 1st fix will be a better investment. I'll bring gripfill and try and get some of that foam stuff. Idiot proof sounds good2nd fix nailers are for interior work only. The thin nails they fire are too flimsy for timber exposed to wind and weather as well as rotting out quickly when used on treated timbers
Architraves, something like 1-1/2in bright steel ovals, driven with a 12 to 16oz hammer. Alternatively, in your case (sporadic use) I'd suggest sticking with Foxhole's advice and using low expansion foam - sparingly. Otherwise you need to know what the exact composition of the wall beneath the skirting is, whether or not there are timber wedges in the wall which can be reused, etc. Foam, whilst more expensive, is a lot more idiot proof! Just use it sparingly.
The architraves pretty much always stand proud or are flush with the skirtings. If not then you either have to pack out the architraves so they sit proud, or you need to terminate both the skirting and the architrave in a plinth block, although TBH I always think they look pretentious in a modern house (in a tall ceilinged Victorian or Edwardian home with high skirtings, however, it is somewhat different)
PS The bill is in the post...
PPS How's the blood pressure, Andy?
But is it? I used to remove the blade from my coping saw when packing it away to stem its' tendency to get hungry and chew on the nearest available wooden tool handle or plastic tool whilst left alone in the back of the van on the way home.FFS is that a blade protector on the coping saw blade? It shows how long it is since I bought a new coping saw, health and safety gone mad (again).
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