Fitting skirting and architrave

Notchy, I am a fan of people not getting ripped off by conmen, whether they are scamming by email or dodgy 'tradesmen'.

Andy

TBF Keitai is asking for advice -most dodgy tradesmen either think they are great at what they do already or simply dont care.

And his chisels are "scary sharp" :mrgreen:

on a serious note, I understand your frustration -sadly site construction is full of people who are chancers. I find decorators and roofers mostly.
 
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This is a man who thought his fridge was broken because the temperature went up when he had the door open for a minute:eek:, Keitai aka cuboid/purpleroad/newhandyman/sincity, should not be charging people for botched jobs, i have feeling most of his customers(victims) will be elderly too.
 
I'll be honest and say that you'll struggle to get any sort of decent "look" to the skirtings in that box room. The one think I might consider is to pull the skirtings off, cut some rips of 6 to 10mm thick MDF, plant them onto the door casing with a minor set back then refix the architraves. At least that would allow you to install the skirting without the need to feather in the end
Basically remove all architrave then put strips underneath to pad it out? The architrave is very proud at top then goes in at bottom. Woukdnt it stick out too far at top? Or put architraves on architraves I guess.
 
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No, remove the existing architraves and put plain square edge strips all round. Then replace the architraves. If the existing architrave set back is, say, 10mm, then the strips would need to be set back by 5mm so that the original architraves could be re-used at the original 10mm set back from the inside edge of the door casing

The idea is to get the architraves so they are flush with or just proud of the skirtings when you install them
 
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Didnt have the confidence for the strips underneath architrave and the lining is out so went for a return mitre (only glued). Better than what I had before. The other side I chipped out plaster and pushed the skirting into wall about 8mm which looks better.
caulked it up and loads of filla

How far should the pins be from each other? I used 40mm and some 30mm ones. Pre drilling helped.

Didnt put anything under radiator as it's so low and figured the carpet would touch the brackets under there.
 
OP - try to get your mitres so they need absolutely no filler, or the very minimum - filler invariably cracks or telegraphs through the finish. It takes practice. Remember that a sharp block plane used judiciously can be a better way to adjust mitre joints (and a lot more delicate and accurate thsn a mitre saw TBH). Where you do a return mitre at the end of a skirting this should return onto the flat of the architrave if at all possible (see sketch) as it looks neater. To do this correctly requires a small amount of back notching.

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For 18 to 20mm thick skirting I tend to use 40 to 45mm 16ga pins. I pin in pairs, one above the other at 300 to 400mm centres. 30mm is a bit on the short side.

Beneath the radiator trim the top to fit under the radiator and scribe neatly around the brackets.

Are you doing anything about that loose grey cable? It looks terrible
 
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No wonder there a lot of caulk on the end of the skirting joint, its butting onto a bullnose edge?
3rd pic if the last set.
I think I would have left the architave off, butted the skirting into the door lining and maybe scribed a quadrant onto the top of the skirting instead
 
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You're right! Rather than running the skirting into the door casing, then scribing the end if the bead to fit, the OP has run the bead in first... Looks a bit of a bodge job, that, which no amount of filler will cure

Take the beading off and redo it,, please
 
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