Gap filler for 3" strip floor circa 1930's

[Restoration man]

Hi,

My house was built 1928 and were flooring has been lifted in the past to add heating pipes and wiring the folk who have done it have been rough as f*k and done a poor job. The last floor in the house to do is the worst. Ive spent time bridging underneath adjacent boards to help support and level the worst ones and it looks pretty flat and as good as it can be. I wanted to fill some of the gaps where there are some broken off tongues, crow bar damage etc to make the surface as solid as possible for the carpet.

This is only about 15% of the flooring in the room. The original unlifted parts are ok to leave as is. I was thinking about using grip fill etc just to make sure the grooves dont show through the carpet in a few years etc

Thanks

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Better to fix a thin layer of hardwood plywood over the whole floor (4 to 6mm thick) or possibly 3.2mm hardboard, or even 4 to 6mm MDF. Screw down at 150 to 200mm centres using 20 to 25mm screws, or nail down with 20 to 25mm tacks, so as not to risk piercing services which are just below the floor. GripFil will potentially crack and break away over time if the boards have any movement in them

 

[foxhole]

Agree with J&K , hardboard is my choice, stapled upside down, ( course side up helps prevent underlay sliding and puckering)or the floor boards will show thru eventually.

 

[Restoration man]

Agree with J&K , hardboard is my choice, stapled upside down, ( course side up helps prevent underlay sliding and puckering)or the floor boards will show thru eventually.

Awesome, thanks for all your help. Great pic foxhole!