Adapter for my rad valve to take powerflush

[trevorbayliss]

I need a compression fitting so I can plug in the hoses for the power flush machine I’ve hired. Just not sure what part I need.

The other side will connect onto the 15mm thermostat valve, but the drain off valve has a much bigger nut

Photos to help

 

[Notch7]

If you are flushing through a thermostat valve -Im not sure thats good practice as it will restrict flow.

maybe Im not understanding what you are doing.

I though I read removing the pump and connection there was best.

Im sure the pros on here will advise

 

[trevorbayliss]

I've been told by the hire place to connect to the rad valves on one rad. So doing it on the kitchen rad by the back door and will have the machine outside. Not bothered about the thermo valve at this point as i can replace it if it gets knackered.

What i need to do is get this bloody blockage shifted before i have to rip up the downstairs floor and boxing in the wall.

Ive put in 800 1h cleaner this eve and the guys living there are going to make sure the heating is kept on

 

[oldbuffer]

1. The best place to connect for a power flush is at the pump connectors. You get the best flow through the pipework.
2. You can do it through the pipes, but you need to:
2.1 Drain the system or find another way of removing the valves of the selected radiator from the pipework. Bunging is OK if yo know what you are doing and can cope with an emergency. Freezing using an electric freezer is more straightforward but more expensive.
2.2 Disconnect the valves from the pipework.
2.3 Connect the hoses from the flush machine to the pipework.
2.4 What you need to connect the hoses to the pipework depends on the hose connections. Look for a compression male iron (they are made of brass). One end 15 mm compression (looks like your pipes are 15 mm) the other end threaded to suit your hose ends. Probably 1/2" BSP, could be 3/4" BSP. If pipes 15 mm, Screwfix 69358 for 1/2", Screwfix 82086 for 3/4"
2.5 May just be an open ended hose, in which case a jubilee clip onto the pipe. If the pipe needs to be a bigger diameter, say 22 mm, use a compression coupler and a stub of the larger pipe. E.g. if your pipe is 15 mm and the hose will only go over a 22mm, use a Screwfix 68500.
3. Doing it this way means the selected radiator doesn't get flushed. Either flush it on its own afterwards or do it manually in the garden.
4. If you have a sealed system, it pretty straightforward.
5. If you have a feed and expansion tank, you need to stop off the vent and the cold feed point, and you MUST remember to unblock the vent afterwards. Its a good opportunity to clean out the F&E - don't flush its contents though the system.
6. Look up the Kamco web site and read their instructions for using their flushing machines. Lots of invaluable advice.

 

[trevorbayliss]

Thanks OB

Its a sealed combi system

If i remove the valves from this rads pipe work could i just use speedfit connectors or elbows to connect the pipes up ?

I will have to drain down as i cant chance bunging it.

Do i fully pressurise the system again before i start flushing. OR is it better to run at a higher or lower pressure. Normal pressure is 1.2 bar on the house.

 

[ianmcd]

Its a sealed combi system

I will have to drain down as i cant chance bunging it.

How exactly how would you bung a sealed system ?

 

[Justin Passing]

Don't put the flow through a TRV, they often have tiny waterways. No you can't just connect a speedfit connector straight to the pipes which go to the rads because the olives will be fixed on the pipes as in your first pic, hence OB's point 2.4.

If you've got x800 in there, run it with just one rad at a time open for a while. Even 10 mins if you bash it to dislodge crud, hot, would help. Yes reversing the flow using a flusher can lift stuff into the stream, but your main task is to get the x800 out. The mains will do that and may well be more pressure and therefore flow than your flusher. Water colour is your guide.
Don't forget your boiler is "shorting out" the rads. You can shut a boiler iso valve, which may then leak, often mending itself after a couple of days. Or not!

Your flusher isn't sealed (no need to risk it , even if it says it is), so you don't pressurise the system with it on.

 

[DP]

My question is, why are you power flushing?
Because someone said you need it?
What boiler and model

 

[oldbuffer]

1. If its a combi, I would disconnect and bridge the flow and return close to the boiler. Otherwise you are flushing all the c**p in the system through the boilers narrow waterways. You could mains flush the boiler afterwards, connecting the mains to return and the outlet to flow.
2. Even if not a combi, the above is wise with modern (< 25 year old) boiler, as they all have narrow waterways.
3. As ianmcd has said above, you can't bung a combi.
4. The power flusher will refill the system with a solution of water and whatever power flushing cleaner you are using. There is no need to pressurise the system at all.

Power flushing is one of plumbing's most boring jobs. Make sure:
a. You keep a careful eye on the level of water in the flushing machine. All too easy to let it overflow! If it overflows you will lose some of the flushing cleaner.
b. As you do each radiator, bang it with a non-marking hammer all over to help loosen any deposited sludge. You can get a drill attachment, but they are a bit harsh and extremely noisy. A soft rubber hammer with a bit of cloth to avoid scuffing the paint work seems fine.
c. You have a good book with you.

I'd allow an hour for set up, 20 - 30 minutes per radiator, 20 - 30 minutes per loop (probably ground and first floor), and another hour to finish, test the water quality and pack up. 12 radiators = a working day (roughly).

 

[trevorbayliss]

Well I am sitting here reading the help and have done each rad (6) individually for 20 mins. I have flushed out the old water and am running it round the system for 2h roughly.

The guy in the shop said to leave the hoses attached to my rad connections and turn on the filling loop to flush the system out.

I’ve got sentinel 800 in the tank.

It’s all been going ok. I just hope this flush works.

My engineer has tried a new pump the other day but that wasn’t the issue. He’s pretty sure it’s a pipe issue but doesn’t think all this work will budge the blockage.

If it doesn’t work then I have to take up the kitchen floor and that will cost me a lot

The photo shows where I have taken it up in the pantry area under the boiler. You can see the return is only on a 15mm pipe. I cut it here but no blockage so it is elsewhere

 

[trevorbayliss]

My question is, why are you power flushing?
Because someone said you need it?
What boiler and model

Visseman vitodens 100w wb1b

Engineer said boiler is ok initially. Most likely a pipe blockage.

I flushed the rads manually 2 weeks ago and no better

So tried the pump, now doing a powerflush to see if that can do something.

 

[trevorbayliss]

It looks like it has been successful !!!

The boiler is working and not cutting off and the rads upstairs have got to a good temp. Prob need a little balancing.

I've left them to mess with the balancing for the next few days and i will go back to add the inhibitor.

 

[DP]

It looks like it has been successful !!!

The boiler is working and not cutting off and the rads upstairs have got to a good temp. Prob need a little balancing.

I've left them to mess with the balancing for the next few days and i will go back to add the inhibitor.

If you used chemicals, make sure you have carried out enough water changes to dilute chemicals to almost nothing.

Not uncommon for people to use chemicals, which suspend the muck but then they fail to remove the soup from the system or power flush to get clean water at dumping valve yet radiator above the base rib is full of black water.