Stop Valve Caps

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Want to temporarily cap 2 stop valves but am unsure what to order. The valves are shown in the pic below. Are such caps univers fitting?
 

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What do you actually want to do? Those valves are designed to interrupt the flow of whatever so are effectively capping the supply pipe already
 
What do you actually want to do? Those valves are designed to interrupt the flow of whatever so are effectively capping the supply pipe already
I know that, but since they both start leaking the moment I turn the screw, I want to cap them just for safety sake before removing the radiator.
 
If they are leaking from the screw they are goosed and need chucking out (those valves are not really suitable for heating pipe use anyway).
 
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i have used these in the past ,


when i changed a radiator and the valve did not turn off correctly,

But i assume you will remove the isolation valve and be left with the pipe and olive and fitting
which I have also used
so this may do

you may get just the ends , as you wont need the screw fitting or olive , as they will still be on the pipe

may need a bit of PFTE tape around the olive - may not - but worth having just in case
 
If they are leaking from the screw they are goosed and need chucking out.
I know that too and they will be as and when my plumber is in the area and comes to do my jobs.
those valves are not really suitable for heating pipe use anyway
And I also know that since another diynot member told me when the same type of valve was mentioned by me in a previous thread.
What I really want to know is whether the required caps are universal fitting and if so, where can I order them from?
 
Do you mean as a replacement for the valve? If so then (as a temporary) JG 15mm pushfit stopends are ideal. You'd need to remove the olive from the supply pipe first though.
 
I know that too and they will be as and when my plumber is in the area and comes to do my jobs.

And I also know that since another diynot member told me when the same type of valve was mentioned by me in a previous thread.
What I really want to know is whether the required caps are universal fitting and if so, where can I order them from
Half inch BSP blanking cap nut and washer ,available from Screwfix and any plumbers merchants.
 
I don't think you can rely on the thread being standard. Often, a fitting from one manufacturer will not fit on the captive nut from an old fitting.
So you have to get the old olive off, and fit a new nut and olive.

Perhaps you will be lucky.

The exception is washing machine taps, enich have a standard thread on the outlet.

I think you want a blanking disc.

 
i have used these in the past when i changed a radiator and the valve did not turn off correctly.
Same problem I have.
But i assume you will remove the isolation valve and be left with the pipe and olive and fitting
which I have also used
so this may do
Don’t know how I missed your post but just glad I found it second time round. I don’t have the expertise to remove the valve leaving the olive and nut! So I simply want to shut the valve, cap it (with your suggestion), and open it again to stop the leak at the screw. If I did remove the valve and flood the place, I wouldn’t know how to stop and my life wouldn’t be worth living! The pipes are microbore! Thank you
 
the image shows the flow direction, BUT to be honest doesnt mean anything - seen those fitted wrong way round, and ONLY a diyer helping a few people
so the pipe and olive will fit inside the valve - how are you going to move that out , to get the stop cap on ?

what does it feed???

Also the other side when removed - may drain whatever its connected to
 
Don’t know how I missed your post but just glad I found it second time round. I don’t have the expertise to remove the valve leaving the olive and nut! So I simply want to shut the valve, cap it (with your suggestion), and open it again to stop the leak at the screw. If I did remove the valve and flood the place, I wouldn’t know how to stop and my life wouldn’t be worth living! The pipes are microbore! Thank you

I think you should have mentioned that they are microbore in the first post.

I am not a plumber but would recommend that you ask your plumber to fit lever valves rather than those awful ball fixing valves.

If you do temporarily use end caps, make sure that you have rubber washers in them. As a decorator, in the past, I have had to use use more than one washer in the end cap because the internal thread on the end cap was longer than the thread on the valve.
 
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If you do temporarily use end caps, make sure that you have rubber washers in them. As a decorator, in the past, I have had to use use more than one washer in the end cap because the internal thread on the end cap was longer than the thread on the valve.
Should have mentioned I did get some rubber inserts with the cap itself , but i did add some washers too
I think you should have mentioned that they are microbore in the first post.
 
I think you should have mentioned that they are microbore in the first post.
I would have had I known that they were.
I am not a plumber but would recommend that you ask your plumber to fit lever valves rather than those awful ball fixing valves.
In a previous thread, it was suggested that valves shouldn’t have been used at all. I would imagine that the plumber will be using solder joins when he reconnects.
If you do temporarily use end caps, make sure that you have rubber washers in them.
I think the plumber will know that.
Thank you for your input.
 
I know that, but since they both start leaking the moment I turn the screw, I want to cap them just for safety sake before removing the radiator.
If they are connected to CH pipework to a radiator then you really need to get someone in to remove them and install proper fittings. They are not designed to be installed onto CH and will get worse of time, I have come across these on CH system before and they just leak constantly from the valve.
Get them removed before they get to that point.
 

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