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Bathroom Extractor Fan Not Working

Joined
6 Mar 2011
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Location
Glasgow
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United Kingdom
Just moved into a 2019 new build and found the extractor fan in the bathroom isn't working. It's wired to a wall mounted light switch and a ceiling mounted isolation switch. I've made sure the isolation switch is on. Is there anything else I should be checking before I resort to calling an electrician?
 
The light switch is for the bathroom light?

And with the isolation switch and the bathroom light switch on, the fan stays off?
 
I installed a wet room, and the LABC insisted that a fan was installed, but since opening window and no shower curtains to cause a chimney effect moving the water vapour around the room, the fan was cheap and nasty, as soon as the completion certificate was issued it would be turned off.

And the darn thing did not even last that long, many of the fans are rather poor quality, and do not last long.

I have two testers, Testing for live.jpg1727654624119.jpeg both can detect voltage without making direct contact it is called NCV or non contact voltage, and these can test without opening the fan to see if there is power, first one expensive £35 second one wife got for free, adverts say £1.03 so cheap enough the polarity test useless, but rest works OK. These 1727655193833.pngwere what we did use, but at £26 (screwfix) seem expensive specially since the new ones show the NCV in 4 stages, plus a load of other functions.
 
Just moved into a 2019 new build and found the extractor fan in the bathroom isn't working. It's wired to a wall mounted light switch and a ceiling mounted isolation switch. I've made sure the isolation switch is on. Is there anything else I should be checking before I resort to calling an electrician?
There may be a loose connection in the wiring at the ceiling rose or in the fan body, which you could check with power off. But probably a knackered fan.
 
Is there anything else I should be checking before I resort to calling an electrician?
Buy yourself a cheap multimeter (£10). Then you can do some basic checks at the fan. We may be able to guide you.
As above, the usual issue is the fan itself.
 
I installed a wet room, and the LABC insisted that a fan was installed, but since opening window and no shower curtains to cause a chimney effect moving the water vapour around the room, the fan was cheap and nasty, as soon as the completion certificate was issued it would be turned off.

And the darn thing did not even last that long, many of the fans are rather poor quality, and do not last long.

I have two testers, View attachment 357268View attachment 357269 both can detect voltage without making direct contact it is called NCV or non contact voltage, and these can test without opening the fan to see if there is power, first one expensive £35 second one wife got for free, adverts say £1.03 so cheap enough the polarity test useless, but rest works OK. These View attachment 357272were what we did use, but at £26 (screwfix) seem expensive specially since the new ones show the NCV in 4 stages, plus a load of other functions.
Thanks. I've got one of the screwdriver type testers with 2 metal contact buttons and an LCD display but never actually used it.
 
There may be a loose connection in the wiring at the ceiling rose or in the fan body, which you could check with power off. But probably a knackered fan.
The fan looks pretty basic, so perhaps replacing is a good start. Ideally with one with the same screw hole positions.
 
Buy yourself a cheap multimeter (£10). Then you can do some basic checks at the fan. We may be able to guide you.
As above, the usual issue is the fan itself.
Thanks. I've got one of the screwdriver type testers with 2 metal contact buttons and an LCD display but never actually used it. The fan looks pretty basic, so perhaps replacing is a good start. Ideally with one with the same screw hole positions.
 
1727695920820.png
The tester seen here held close, but not that close to an extension socket, it was beeping slow, showing red light flashing slow, and one bar of four showing on the display, so should detect power without opening the fan. Note finger hold other end of tester, you do need to hold it to be that sensitive.

That is the beauty of having four levels, the same applies to my clamp on with NCV but showing this as so cheap.
 
so should detect power
I'm a bit surprised by this statement.

It may detect voltage, but it certainly won't detect whether the wires have come loose, or whether there both wires are connected elsewhere. It is very likely to give meaningless results, being basically a neon screwdriver.
 
Those magic wands detect voltage - not reliably either. For the fan to work you’ll need a live - which the wand might indicate, but you’ll also need a neutral. Being zero volts, the wand cannot test for it. You need a two probe voltage tester or that cheap multimeter.

There are other ways using a basic lamp as a test device. But that needs care and knowledge.
 
Those magic wands detect voltage - not reliably either. For the fan to work you’ll need a live - which the wand might indicate, but you’ll also need a neutral. Being zero volts, the wand cannot test for it. You need a two probe voltage tester or that cheap multimeter.

There are other ways using a basic lamp as a test device. But that needs care and knowledge.
OK, something like this?


Will it also allow me to check if these two cables are 'live'? I removed the bath panel to fix it properly and found these, along with the usual array of crap that bathroom fitters seem to think is acceptable to leave under the bath, including a power tool battery charger!
20240930_144555.jpg
20240930_144545.jpg
 
I'm a bit surprised by this statement.

It may detect voltage, but it certainly won't detect whether the wires have come loose, or whether there both wires are connected elsewhere. It is very likely to give meaningless results, being basically a neon screwdriver.
Is there a standard wiring layout for two downlights, the extractor fan, the isolation switch and the light switch?
 

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