
Re the bold highlight.I just did a test and it tripped at 61C (flow temp is 57) but wad probably near 62 when it tripped.
Will lowering the pump setting from 2 to 1 reduce the return flow temp (water in radiators for longer)? Trying to decide what the best setting is...
I just noticed after it tripped that it never fell below about 53C. It cycled without burning gas for a little bit. At the end of the 7 mins I now have it set to for anti fast time, it started again. So it seems to be a case of anti fast ends when either the time or temp settings are reached, whichever happens first. I will try an anti fast time of more like 10 or 12 mins. But the temperature on the boiler wasn't falling very fast.
Re the bold highlight.
If the boiler ran for 7 minutes and over, it would (in theory) have no time left for the anti cycle when it hit the Flow Set Point (FSP)+4 (usually on a Worcester). so it would then cycle on the hysteresis you have set (-12) I think you said.
To test, put your boiler flow to 45c, anti cycle to 7 mins and hysteresis to -3, on the first run the boiler should be on for over 7 minutes. It will then hit 45c+4 =49c, it will then start dropping using the hysteresis as it has no anti cycle time to use and will not refire until -3 is hit. This shouldn't be too long. Think about it, if it has no anti cycle time left what does it use? The temp hysteresis ! Look me ages to figure this out so you're not alone. The wife thought I was going barmy timing the boiler fires![]()
Anti cycle time is TOTAL on/off time minimum.
On the other hand, using the settings as above, if the boiler ran for 5 mins in total after hitting FSP+4 it would then be off for only another 2 minutes (7 minutes specified anti cycle time), wether it hit the hysteresis drop or not.
Me? No...Late to the party but a simple question: do you have weather compensation on the boiler?
Perhaps something you might want to look at to save a bit of manual tweakingMe? No...
I don't think it's available for my boiler 2014 WB Si Compact, according to WB Tech. anywayPerhaps something you might want to look at to save a bit of manual tweaking

Thanks for your comments. I see I'm not the only one who has been fiddling around with settings in an obsessive way and had the missus wondering what it's all aboutRe the bold highlight.
If the boiler ran for 7 minutes and over, it would (in theory) have no time left for the anti cycle when it hit the Flow Set Point (FSP)+4 (usually on a Worcester). so it would then cycle on the hysteresis you have set (-12) I think you said.
To test, put your boiler flow to 45c, anti cycle to 7 mins and hysteresis to -3, on the first run the boiler should be on for over 7 minutes. It will then hit 45c+4 =49c, it will then start dropping using the hysteresis as it has no anti cycle time to use and will not refire until -3 is hit. This shouldn't be too long. Think about it, if it has no anti cycle time left what does it use? The temp hysteresis ! Took me ages to figure this out so you're not alone. The wife thought I was going barmy timing the boiler fires
Anti cycle time is TOTAL on/off time minimum.
EDIT: This I'm not certain about now.
On the other hand, using the settings as above, if the boiler ran for 5 mins in total after hitting FSP+4 it would then be off for only another 2 minutes (7 minutes specified anti cycle time), wether it hit the hysteresis drop or not.
Your logic is correct.Thanks for your comments. I see I'm not the only one who has been fiddling around with settings in an obsessive way and had the missus wondering what it's all about
That's useful to know about the flow temp +4C on a Worcester. Explains why it wasn't getting to 5 above as I was expecting.
In terms of my current settings. I have flow temp set to 60C, anti fast cycle flow temp (K) -14, and anti fast cycle time 15 mins.
My thinking is that once the flow temp +4 is reached, let it turn off for a bit (until 14C below flow temp reached or 15 mins elapsed - assuming one of these triggers it back on), then let it run through a longer burn from a lower temperature, for more efficient heating.
Is my logic correct? Do these settings seem reasonable?
Yes, whatever is longest, NOT the first criteria that is hit. The boiler will show which criteria it is using via the code(s), 202 means it's using the anti cycle TIME and 204 means it is using the anti hysteresis. You will find it initially shows 204 and then if the criteria is not achieved then it will change the code to 202 i.e. there must be some anti cycle time remaining.So, if the (remaining) anticycle time is used up, the boiler will wait and not refire until the flow temp falls to SP temp - the set hysteresis? or
If the flow temp falls to the SP temp - the set hysteresis before the remaining anticycle time is used up then the boiler will wait and not refire until the remaining anticycle time is used up?
Is this how it works?.
Hi all,
I have my greenstar 25i combi set to 9.1KW and 53C flow temp. With the outside temperatures falling I want to know what would have the biggest effect on warmth indoors:
- increasing the rating to say 10.5kw
- increasing the flow temperature by 1 or 2 degrees
- increasing the amount of time the heating is on
However, I want to change the one that will increase warmth in the most efficient and economical way. I assume the last option will be effective but most costly. Which would win out of the first two?
There isn't much I can do to improve other factors like insulation.
Thanks
Hi JohnYou are running anticycle settings 5 minutes, -9C, (Flowtemp SP 50C), to run with a anticyle period effectively based on temperature control only?, see below.
If there is no remaining anticycle time then the anticycle period is only determined by the flowtemp falling to SP-hysteresis, if the (flowtemp) SP is set very low, say 35/40C ( like with WC) then depending on the hysteresis setting, the boiler will take a age, if ever, to refire?. Its a bit surprising that a maximum anticycle time (separate from the normal anticycle time) can't be set somewhere?.
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