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Parkside (I know!) grinder repair

A quick google search suggests that a cush drive is related to gear changes, might it be the case the orange plastic bits were just an interface between the two sides necessary to put both parts of the unit together. On the balance of probability they may use the main body for other tools.
 
A quick google search suggests that a cush drive is related to gear changes, might it be the case the orange plastic bits were just an interface between the two sides necessary to put both parts of the unit together. On the balance of probability they may use the main body for other tools.

That drive method, allows for a certain amount of misalignment, between the driving and driven shafts. Without it, the alignment would need to be extremely precise.
 
If I could obtain the genuine part I’d give it a go, but I wouldn’t bother fabricating my own.
We don’t know how strong the material needs to be.
John
 
I don't know why they didn't use a disc slightly smaller diameter than the drive flange with 4 holes corresponding for the pins and would be the way I'd be looking to repair it, with something like a bit of conveyor belt.
A question of balance may come into the mix with something high revving though
 
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The orange bit is there to ensure the tool fails just outside of warranty.
It's the 'engineered to fail' secret component which should have self destructed so it could not be identified.
 
I don't know why they didn't use a disc slightly smaller diameter than the drive flange with 4 holes
My first assumption was that they did, but given the amount of bits of orange deposited everywhere else most of the drive rubber has disintegrated leaving just the two holes, but looking again, you may be right, and the end of the longer pin on one side mates with the shorter pin on the other side.

I wonder if it would work to get a large diameter choc block electrical connector, that will fit over the pin, remove the plastic housing so you just have the metal inner, remove one screw and then fit to one pin, screw and glue(/loctite) to one side only (whichever side of the grinder drive sticks out more and is easier to reach-I guess the gearbox side)

Consider chopping the screws down so they end up flush when tightened.

1753077648097.png

side view and top view
 
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I wonder if it would work to get a large diameter choc block electrical connector, that will fit over the pin, remove the plastic housing so you just have the metal inner, remove one screw and then fit to one pin, screw and glue(/loctite) to one side only (whichever side of the grinder drive sticks out more and is easier to reach-I guess the gearbox side)

The impression I got from the photo, was that the pins/pegs, would be too long, to fit end to end like that. That the pins of the drive, would need to be 90 degrees out, with the driven pins, hence the need for a disc with 4x holes in it. IMHO - Any dense plastic will work, with the four holes drilled over-size, to allow for any misalignment in the two shafts.
 
Yes that's right, if you place the two halves back together and turn it by hand you can hear them click together before the resistance of the motor is felt, can actually see them through the vent and they look to be parallel with little to no gap between the end of the pin and the disc it mates to.

Managed to get some parts 3d printed and they should be here soon so I may be able to fix this if the PLA doesn't just explode under the stress of spinning at such high speed.
 
Managed to get some parts 3d printed and they should be here soon so I may be able to fix this if the PLA doesn't just explode under the stress of spinning at such high speed.

If it works, no reason why not, offer the part 3D printed on ebay, as a fix. Others must be suffering the same part fail.
 
Thanks for the replies.

@robinbanks yes as a biker I thought of the cush drive also.

It'll need to be circular as it fits into a recess on top of the fan. I put an stl file together to get a 3d print done but my mates printer has broken. I may have to try and fashion something by hand.
Send me the stl file and I can print one for you. Cost of postage to a charity of your choice.
I shall need your address too. I promise no stalking!
 
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The impression I got from the photo, was that the pins/pegs, would be too long, to fit end to end like that. That the pins of the drive, would need to be 90 degrees out, with the driven pins, hence the need for a disc with 4x holes in it. IMHO - Any dense plastic will work, with the four holes drilled over-size, to allow for any misalignment in the two shafts.
I initially agreed, later wasn't sure. Couldn't quite work out why the length of the pins was staggered unless the long one on each side mates end to end with the short one

Either way, it should be apparent when the Op does the squish test with a lump of blutack, what sort of interim adapter is required
 
Just to bring this thread to a conclusion.

Thanks for the offer to 3d print my part Old Salt, I had already ordered a few from 3gd3d.co.uk, they arrived today.

Some fettling with a 3.5mm drill bit and files to enlarge the holes and remove some material where the motor hub protrudes and they drop straight in.

20250723_161103.jpg


I was a little nervous starting it the first couple of times, had visions of the part just exploding. But it ran up and down with no load OK, slapped a disc on and made a couple of very small cuts and it appears to be working as well as it ever has.

I did contact Lidl and was passed on to another company, there has been an offer to refund the cost of this grinder but I have lost my receipt and with no proof of purchase its not happening. Did locate the purchase on my bank statement, early 2019 and with cutting discs almost £105!

In the end, a little under £10 to get the parts printed and some hours of my time later its back to working order.

Thanks for all of the many suggestions.
 

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