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Garage door missing parts

Image #2 looks like there is a deadlock slider under the internal handle. Have you tried to push the slider up (and then use the key)?
The slider can be operated by hand but it also moves when you turn the key: one complete revolution clockwise moves it up; anti-clockwise moves it down. Whichever position it's in, the handles won't turn. :unsure:
 
The slider can be operated by hand but it also moves when you turn the key: one complete revolution clockwise moves it up; anti-clockwise moves it down. Whichever position it's in, the handles won't turn. :unsure:

Fair enough. It looks like it is designed to let you exit from the inside even when when I has been key locked from the outside.

Sorry for getting your hopes up :-(
 
Fair enough. It looks like it is designed to let you exit from the inside even when when I has been key locked from the outside.

Sorry for getting your hopes up :(
No need to apologise! Any and all comments and advice are very gratefully received. :)
 
It should fit but it does away with the euro cylinder the old handle uses and has an integrated key in the handle
 
I contacted a local garage door company to come and have a look at this. They said the rear cam is missing a part and something's snapped off inside the lock. Their conclusion: parts are no longer available so the only way to sort it out is to buy Garador's official conversion kit for £160.

Instead, I've ordered all the bits from the link @Harry Bloomfield posted above for £25. I'd rather have a go myself than pay a significant proportion of what it would cost to replace the entire door, just to replace the lock and handle.

Watch this space (I'm sure you're all riveted)... :D
 
:unsure:

The good news: the new external handle and lock are a perfect fit for the hole left by the old handle and lock.

The not-so-good news: the spindle on the new external handle is square which means I can't secure the old internal handle to it (the old spindle was circular and threaded). I can use it to turn the cam but it just slides off when the door is opened.

Also, with the new external handle, there's no way to lock the door from the inside (the old handle had a switch on the back of it which, if the lock hadn't failed, would have locked/unlocked the handle).

Before fitting: the door couldn't be opened from the outside and couldn't be locked or unlocked from either side.

After fitting: the door can be opened from the outside but only once: as soon as you open it, the internal handle falls off. :LOL: Also, the door can't be locked or unlocked from the inside.

So I'm in a different, but no better, position. I think I'll have to just stop using the garage door until I can afford to replace the whole thing.
 
The not-so-good news: the spindle on the new external handle is square which means I can't secure the old internal handle to it (the old spindle was circular and threaded). I can use it to turn the cam but it just slides off when the door is opened.

Can you not use a square file, to file the internal handle to make it fit?

This thread needs close up photos!
 
I think I've managed to botch it so that the door can at least be opened from the outside, although I'm not sure how much I trust the latching mechanism (see photos below). We'll just have to work around not being able to lock or unlock it from the inside.

This thread needs close up photos!

The new external handle and (square) spindle:

1.jpg



The new plastic cam attached to the existing latching mechanism:

2.jpg



Rear view of the old external handle and lock unit with metal cam and circular spindle (the nut on the end of the spindle is to secure the internal handle which has been removed for re-use):

3.jpg



The new cam and existing latching mechanism felt a bit loose fitted as they were in the picture above. They felt more robust under tension so I rotated the cam anti-clockwise to its next seating position:

4.jpg


Can't you drill a small hole through the side of the handle/spindle and then insert a split pin to hold it in place?
We found a small rubber tube that fits over the end of the spindle inside the internal handle. It's snug enough to stop the handle falling off.

That's all I can do until I can get the door replaced, I think.

Thanks all for your patience, advice and input. :)

I'll be posting a new thread soon, asking about replacing bolts and locks on our drive gate. (y)
 
And all a burglar does is thump a pointed screwdriver through the tin door and push on that vertical bar and doors open, seen it 100s of times when doing burglary locksmithing
 
Surely, all you need to do is give that vertical wire a tug, to release the latches, and open it from the inside?
It can be opened from the inside but it can't be locked or unlocked.

And all a burglar does is thump a pointed screwdriver through the tin door and push on that vertical bar and doors open, seen it 100s of times when doing burglary locksmithing
That's a very good point that I hadn't even considered. :oops: That would also have been true of the original setup, wouldn't it?

On reflection, I think I'll put it back how it was and just accept that we can only open it from the inside.
 
It can be opened from the inside but it can't be locked or unlocked.

Nor could my original up and over door, it's a 'feature' of many of them. You could lock it from the inside, by disconnecting the vertical linkage.

Those up and over doors are very easy to break into, which is why you see some with added hasps and padlocks either at the bottom, or the sides. If there is another means of entry, then simple sliding bolts can be added, at the sides, on the inside.
 

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