Leaking radiator valve

[Halloween Jack]

Hi folks,

I have a leaking valve on the towel rail radiator.

It only leaks when radiator is on. It looks like the water's leaking from inside the valve.

Is it as simple as turning of the water supply and putting a new valve in?

There's similar on the other side too.

Any ideas how I'd find a suitable replacement?

Thanks

 

[jj4091]

Not quite, you will probably need to drain the system down unless you can isolate flow and return. Google towel rail isolation valves.

 

[Halloween Jack]

It seems quite tight. Also the water's coming from the end which seems to be from inside the valve rather than around its sides if you get me?

 

[fixitflav]

Hi folks,

I have a leaking valve on the towel rail radiator.

View attachment 395888

It only leaks when radiator is on. It looks like the water's leaking from inside the valve.

Is it as simple as turning of the water supply and putting a new valve in?

There's similar on the other side too.

Any ideas how I'd find a suitable replacement?

Thanks

Can't tell from the pic, but if the brown bit has flats on it, it's a gland, and you could try tightening it

 

[Halloween Jack]

That's the thing that turns the heating. Allows hot water though I think. So I need to be able to turn it on and off without it leaking.

 

[fixitflav]

That's the thing that turns the heating. Allows hot water though I think. So I need to be able to turn it on and off without it leaking.

No, not the shaft with the square on the end, the part where the leak is coming from

 

[Halloween Jack]

Sorry mate, here's another pic:

You don't mean that brown clasp thing do you?

 

[fixitflav]

Sorry mate, here's another pic:
View attachment 395892

You don't mean that brown clasp thing do you?

That's a better pic! Some valves have a packed gland you can tighten. Yours will have an O-ring inside. You could replace that, but obvs you would need to drain.

 

[Halloween Jack]

Ha! yeah way better!

For a layman, is that easy? I can google how to drain a rad. Turn off water supply and open up a few valves I'm guessing. The other side looks like this:

And then replace just the O ring rather than the whole brass valve?

We've had a lot of leaks and flooding lately so I'd like to avoid another disaster. Or at least not cause it.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

For a layman, is that easy? I can google how to drain a rad.

First, let us know which type of system it is....

Is it a combi boiler, where you have a pressure gauge on the boiler, and need to top it up - or have you an open-vented system, where you have a small header tank in the loft, with no gauge?

 

[HERTS P&D]

New valves needed:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/towelrads-15mm-x-1-2-chrome-straight-designer-manual-radiator-valve-lockshield-2-pack/586ry

Andy

 

[Halloween Jack]

Hi, it's a combi boiler with a pressure gauge and I top it up.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Hi, it's a combi boiler with a pressure gauge and I top it up.

In which case, you might be able to do it, without draining it, using the principle of if air cannot get in, the water will not drain out....

Turn heating off. Release all the pressure in the system, by opening the bleed valve on that radiator, and catching what comes out. Close the valve, at the other end, opposite the one which is leaking. Now undo the leaking valve, catching any small amounts of water which escape. If you have to leave it, with the valve removed for a while, it might be a good idea to find a rubber bung/cork, or what ever to block the socket, whilst you reinstall a replacement.

 

[Halloween Jack]

Sounds promising.

Shall I just replace the whole brass thing? And are those links above from Andy correct replacements?

Or is it one of those things I need to take in to a plumbers to compare to get the right size?

Thanks

 

[HERTS P&D]

Drain it all down, remove and refit new valves, apply inhibtor to the system and then fill and bleed.

Don't listen to the diyers!

Andy