Decorators - how to make good

[nero44]

Hello Decorators,

I have removed some MDF shelving in my alcove. On the left side is an unused/inactive chimney and right side is just regular wall, where you can also see some shelving on the other side still to be tacked.

Anyhow, the shelves were actually a box structure and when removing the MDF panels on the left and right walls, some of the plaster came off with it. The right side seems pretty simple. Seems some old plaster covered with some bonding coat. Idea would be to lightly brush some pva.. let dry and then toupret TX110 to fill and finish. Some sanding painting.. done

Left side seems a bit more tricky. Uploaded wider and one more detailed high res, in case anyone has any strong views they see potential asbestos plaster... it's different than on the other side, but to me it looks like the regular old grey plaster and then some other lighter top coat plaster.


The grey part I suppose I can also just PVA and fill with toupret tx110, it's tricky on the edges though. On the left side you can see the edge, which looks to have been taped and some of it ripped. I definitely do not want to redo the entire edge... any suggestions on the best course of action here please?

 

[Wayners]

Tx110 as you say. Standard toupret is fine for that although it takes a bit longer to dry but cheaper.
When I say longer to dry, only a day max..
Mix up a new batch every 45 mins and keep hitting it and build up layers.
Final layer you will need a blade wide enough to bridge across.
Damp sponge around edges of filler to keep tidy as you go.

120 grade sand. Wood glue some sandpaper on wood so it's flat.

Oh. No asbestos there IMO

 

[nero44]

Thanks @Wayners really helpful.

Wood glue some sandpaper on wood so it's flat.

I used to have these sanding sponges, but they really become rubbish with some real use, i.e. anything beyond a diy art project..

What would you say for the corner/edge where paper/tape has torn? It actually has torn off on several locations further up the chimney breast on the left side of the first picture.

If I pull off any more, I feel the entire edge will come off, so there is very little to work with. Anything to make it less flaky so I can put a skim coat over it? A quick fix I think is fine. I will probably get a professional decorate in later in the year to have the entire room re-decorated.

 

[opps]

I pretty much agree with @Wayners but I would be concerned about the PVA making the existing paper bubble/ripple.

When faced with such situations, I normally apply about 2" of shellac based paint (eg Zinsser BIN or Blockade by Smith and Rodgers) around the parameter of the plaster/paper so that the water in the filler does not reactivate the wall paper paste. Sometimes I will apply two coats. If you don't do that, on the balance of probability, the paper will lift as the filler dries.

In your first image, the PVA would be beneficial. I would use it neat and brush it into the edges of the ripped gypsum skim coat to reduce any potential bounce. I would then use a rag to remove any PVA from the face of the skim coat. PVA, directly under paint can be problematic.

IMO, TX110 is worth the extra money. It has cement in it which means that other than curing faster, if it gets wet, it will not turn to mush.

 

[Wayners]

Remove the side with lining paper.
Fill.
New lining paper.


I'm not keen on the fact I can see pink gypsum used on fireplace. It hasn't caused a problem so all good.

 

[opps]

I'm not keen on the fact I can see pink gypsum used on fireplace. It hasn't caused a problem so all good.

Most of the houses that I work in are victorian 9" solid walls in west London. I, as you are aware, am not a plasterer. Most of those properties have the original lime plaster and have, at some point, been skimmed with gypsum plaster. I appreciate that some people say that only lime products should be used over lime plaster bases, but in over 30+ years that I have been decorating, I haven't witnessed any problems. Most/many properties have had lining paper applied and then regular non breathable emulsion applied over the top. That kinda negates the need for lime plaster.

I am not suggesting that the lime plaster advocates are wrong, my own anecdotal experience suggests otherwise though.

 

[Wayners]

Re plaster over lime plaster.
I've not seen any problems either tbh.
I've seen the YouTube videos where it has been a problem. I just like to mention it so people can be aware and research themselves.