Broken bath tap and constant running water - temp fix?

[tiptap]

Bit of an odd one here, got a call from my Mum a few days ago that the top of her very old hot water tap broke off while running a bath, which has now left her unable to switch off the running water from it. The top and handle snapped off, about halfway through the turn. I couldn't find a solution so switched the water supply off completely from the kitchen sink stopcock, now having to turn it on and off throughout the day.

She had an emergency plumber out since explaining the pipes are too old (20 years or so) so he wouldn't force the stop valve under the bath to shut that specific tap off, as it might cause a leak and make things even worse. The main issue is the current taps are in the middle of the old bath impossible to get to without ripping it all out, which he said the only fix then is a new bath and new pipes as he can't just fit a new pair of taps. A new bath is fine in the long run, but due to circumstances it can’t be done immediately which leaves shutting the water on and off every single day. Any ideas if there’s a way I can physically turn the tap part so the water stops running? Not looking to fix the specific taps or make them usable, just purely to be able to turn that tap off for her so she can have constant running water again.

I know it's probably a long shot and in addition I'm also useless at anything that isn't putting a shelf up, but I'm trying this as a last resort. It's the hot water side, on a dual tap. She also has an immersion heater for the hot water too, which was updated in the last 5 or so years - we've kept it switched off power wise but I wondered if there's a valve or anything on there to shut the supply off?

 

[terryplumb]

I suspect a flat bladed screwdriver of the right width blade ,hammered into what's left in the tap would allow you to turn the valve off.
What area of the country are you in ?

 

[terryplumb]

If you want to isolate the hot water supply to all taps ,that can usually be done at the hot water cylinder,is that fed from a loft tank ?

 

[oldbuffer]

Hard to tell without a photograph showing all of the tap, but you might consider fitting a pair of "tap revivers". For example, Screwfix item number 19163. You would need to shut off the hot and cold and remove the "headworks" of the existing taps. The headworks is the part with the brass operating shank which is the actual on / off valve.

 

[tiptap]

I suspect a flat bladed screwdriver of the right width blade ,hammered into what's left in the tap would allow you to turn the valve off.
What area of the country are you in ?

I did try similar at first in a panic and I couldn't feel anything budge - admittedly did it timidly was worried I'd break something! I'm in Essex.

If you want to isolate the hot water supply to all taps ,that can usually be done at the hot water cylinder,is that fed from a loft tank ?

I think that route could be my best bet, I'll take a look at the immersion tomorrow and see if I can figure it out. Being completely honest I've got no idea regarding the loft tank and how it all works, all I know is there's an immersion heater in one of the rooms that has a switch for the hot water around the house and that the electric shower doesn't need it on. From a quick google around it seems there should be a way to switch off the supply at the immersion at least.

Hard to tell without a photograph showing all of the tap, but you might consider fitting a pair of "tap revivers". For example, Screwfix item number 19163. You would need to shut off the hot and cold and remove the "headworks" of the existing taps. The headworks is the part with the brass operating shank which is the actual on / off valve.

Completely forgot to take a picture of the full taps! Appreciate the help, I hadn't seen these before - so are they a one fits all type of thing? Can take a picture tomorrow if it helps.

 

[HERTS P&D]

Buy a new tap.

Andy

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Completely forgot to take a picture of the full taps! Appreciate the help, I hadn't seen these before - so are they a one fits all type of thing?

No, there are 'sizes'. Best to shut the water off, get a socket on the brass hex, and remove the one you have, as a sample, to take along to a plumbers merchant.

 

[CountryFan]

Why not currently just change the isolation valve then tackle the tap?

 

[tiptap]

No, there are 'sizes'. Best to shut the water off, get a socket on the brass hex, and remove the one you have, as a sample, to take along to a plumbers merchant.

Gotcha, appreciate it.

Why not currently just change the isolation valve then tackle the tap?

Great question! The plumber who looked at it seemed in a rush, don't think he was up for any problem solving and made a point about them being older pipes. Not sure I'd attempt that myself but is that an "easy" task?

 

[CountryFan]

Not sure I'd attempt that myself but is that an "easy" task?

Relatively easy. You already know how to turn the water off. If you post a photo of isolation valve I’m sure we can guide you. Probably a compression type, so may even be a case of straight swapping.

 

[foxhole]

If you are changing the bath take a hole saw to bath just below tap which will allow you to replace it .
Patch with a plastic patch siliconed on till you can replace bath .

 

[terryplumb]

Can take a picture tomorrow if it helps.

Pictures of the hot water cylinder that has the immersion heater in it ,and the pipework around it would be useful.
As well as pics of the taps of course.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Not sure I'd attempt that myself but is that an "easy" task?

Do you have tools for the job?

 

[tiptap]

Relatively easy. You already know how to turn the water off. If you post a photo of isolation valve I’m sure we can guide you. Probably a compression type, so may even be a case of straight swapping.

Alright nice one, I'll check that tomorrow as well.

If you are changing the bath take a hole saw to bath just below tap which will allow you to replace it .
Patch with a plastic patch siliconed on till you can replace bath .

Hadn't considered that - the joys of a middle placed tap!

Pictures of the hot water cylinder that has the immersion heater in it ,and the pipework around it would be useful.
As well as pics of the taps of course.

Will do mate.

Do you have tools for the job?

The tools and the bottle for it probably not! Can potentially borrow the tools needed.

Either way this has been helpful as I can use this information to discuss the options with a potential diff plumber, the 2 I've spoken to seemed dismissive of any fixes and want to rip the whole thing out which I assumed was the only way until now. Happy to give things a go myself but if it's less risk getting someone to do it that also works, beats paying what I've been quoted for a new bath and repositioning taps immediately.

 

[Justin Passing]

Anyone who says there will be a problem with 20 year old pipes is giving you BS.
Do you mean about the tap position that it's in the middle of the long side which is opposite you?

Presumably the thing broke because it was stiff; constant wiggling of the tap head finally snapped off the splined brass part which was inside the tap head held by an axial screw in the top of the head under a cap - or was it a screw through that hole in the tap head at about 10 oclock?

Anyway I 'm thinking on the tap , valve part , the red marked part would have rotated clockwise to turn it off:
In other words the nut stays still so the central shaft rotates at the blue dashed line.

So find something which allows you to grip very hard, on the red part.

SOmething like these would do, note the parallel jaws

WHereas these -

Have a "hole" in the jaws which can be too big unless you use short ones which are too short....
A "Mole" type self-grip wrench should work.

The "isolating valve " under the bath was probably put there so the fitter could fit the bath with that tap already attached?
It could be a stopcock type, gate valve, or quarter turn valve.
Each has its demerits.

The nut we can see should allow removal of the tap valve but you'll need a good grip again. A ring spanner or socket from a set , should work.

Then measure the part, count the splines, etc, and look at a tap spares site - there are several, like Lunn's

Washer Valves for taps

Click above link to view full range 2

shop.lunns.net

or tap-spares.com.

It's probably plumbered like this, and there may be valves at the rred circles:

the red circles