Ate (Teves) are certainly not "no-name" parts. They are a top brake company, who's parts have been original equipment on European cars for a very long time. I remember then being on Mercedes, BMW, Opel, the first Cavaliers had them, too. As the box is marked "exchange" it is clear that it is a re-con inside, there should be no problem with it.Congratulations on your buying skills. It takes real talent to order a crappy no-name caliper and open the box to find a recon one in there!(Assuming that's what it is, or course...). Slightly more curious as to how anyone can be ham-fisted enough to "break" a brake caliper?
The study of a radiator
- Thread starter DiyNutJob
- Start date
Indeed, but Nutjob didn't deliberately order that. He just ended up receiving it, completely by chance, and was trying to claim some kind of superpower for ordering parts...
So... let me get this right then... You stripped that, by trying to spin the caliper on with your frail and delicate hand?
No. You cross-threaded it by hand, and then you were mechanically inept enough to keep heaving on the spanner until you'd completely mullered the thread all the way up...
Exchange just means you exchange the old one for a new one. There is no guarantee it's a recon. In any case, I am not going to spend any more to return the old one. The ebay seller didn't ask for it.
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If you have the skill, you wouldn't need to be deliberate. The right part will just come to you. You just need to set up the conditions for such an occurrence.
Sounds to me you have made this error before. I haven't, and never had to play with the hoses. The 22 year old hose was in perfect condition in any case.So... let me get this right then... You stripped that, by trying to spin the caliper on with your frail and delicate hand?
No. You cross-threaded it by hand, and then you were mechanically inept enough to keep heaving on the spanner until you'd completely mullered the thread all the way up...
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I can tell by looking at it that it's a re-con.
Ok, what tells you it's a recon?
Of course...
The hose might have been in perfect condition, but you were talking about a caliper and hose connector, which, by the time you finished butchering them and took the photo in post#57, clearly weren't...
I was missing some ham in my fist to spin the heavy caliper. But all that is in the past now, everything is back together. Now I have to work out why no fluid in the line. I have no codes, and my ABS pump seems to be working from the activation buzzing.The hose might have been in perfect condition, but you were talking about a caliper and hose connector, which, by the time you finished butchering them and took the photo in post#57, clearly weren't...
Does it have a rear load sensing valve in the braking system? (Or a pressure-limiting / reducing valve)? Which way is the braking system split on that car?
It has 2 pressure sensors. There is a split, but I don't know which way. Bleeding brakes for 3 other wheels were fine but the rock hard pedal had no effect in pushing fluid out from the front right driver side. Nor could I push the pedal down. Activating the ABS on the right side allowed the brake pedal to pulsate and go down to the floor. But no fluid was going to the problem wheel. Activating the ABS on the left gave a more subtle/muffled pulsation and the pedal didn't go down to the floor. It's almost as if the ABS was pumping air on the right. But no amount of ABS pumping did anything for the problem wheel. I think no fluid is existing the ABS unit for the problem wheel.
I found a similar case to mine and the guy replaced the hydraulic block and pump of the ABS unit to fix the problem. So, the ABS unit is the most probable cause of the problem: one of the valves in the hydraulic block failed, or the electrical coil of the valve in the control module had burnt out. Each wheel has an inlet and outlet valve inside the ABS unit. Will now need to get a used unit to scavenge the parts.