Hi,
I recently had the water pump in my combi boiler replaced. Once the pump was removed and I saw that there appeared be a layer of rust like crust covering some of the surface I was curious what it was and how it formed.
My current theory is that it had formed a slow leak and and over...
Thanks, the problem I have with precut boards is that at the top of the panel there is what I believe is called a lap joint which means I can't simply get a basic rectangle but a custom made board. I would need to find a company that could cut an MDF board to an exact specification then apply...
Hi,
To cover the side of my bath there is a sheet of MDF which I believe has been laminated to protect it from water damage.
Over time some of the laminate has been chipped away exposing the MDF beneath.
I am now concerned about possible further water damage and would like to fix it...
Unfortunately the FCU is on a tiled wall and I don't have the tools to be able to cut through it to create a new hole for the smart switch. Otherwise I would have replaced the FCU with a none switching version and then created a new hole for a smart switch and routed the wiring through it.
My...
Hi,
I have a fused spur switch that powers a floor heater in the kitchen. I am wanting to be able to turn it in on/off remotely just like how I am able to do with my central heating system.
I haven't been able to find a suitable smart spur switch so it looks like I will need to wire in a fuse...
Thanks I was wondering if it was soldered since I had trouble finding any sort of nut to unscrew. Will just have to get some power tools to cut out a larger section of the chipboard since I am in a ground floor flat.
The pipe to my radiator valve is twisted and now that I am replacing the radiator I would also like to replace this part of the pipe.
As you can see from the picture the pipe is attached to a 90 degree bend which is placed below the chipboard giving me limited access.
Are there any tools I...
That's strange because I use a different type of PIR switch that doesn't make a sound and operates a 4W LED fine. The difference with this one is that it's fitted at the switch and only takes a Live and Load wire but when I try and use it in my kitchen it doesn't cover the full space so it...
The model number of my relay is "ES-T73-24VDC" and the closet match I could find online was the T73 series from Tyco Electronics. All I know is that it has a rating of 10A 28VDC / 250VAC and 15A 125VAC as shown in the photo below:
Since I couldn't find a SSR of similar specification and...
Whats the best method for doing that, do I just solder some wire from the PCB to the switch?
As far as I can tell from the PCB the relay has four legs, when I replace it with a solid state switch which also has four legs how do I know which leg goes where?
Moving away from an electromagnetic switch would be good. The current one supports a Coil Voltage of 24VDC and a Contact Capacity of 10A 240VAC/28VDC and 5A 125VAC. Any idea how that translates to a solid-state relay?
Hi,
To turn on my kitchen light I use a PIR Sensor Switch which I chose for its ability to detect movement up to 12m away.
It works as described except it makes a loud click when it switches on or off the light which is starting to annoy me. After opening up the case to see if there was any...
Good idea, how would the wiring work for that? Would I take the Neutral and Live wires from the light then wire them into the sensor then take the Load and Neutral back into the light?
Yes there are other models that are designed to directly replace the light switch but I just discovered that...