Recent content by Bonni

Is it rising damp, or was the chimney closed off?

I was just about to say that a hot/cold/radiator pipe in the floor above must be leaking. Glad it's sorted.

If the garage is attached to the house, you need building regs. So the plans that you need to get drawn up will include the latest building regs specifications on insulation etc.. You will need to follow the cold roof system and the vapour barrier is important. The insulation for the roof used...

The internal diameter is the important part. You can buy rubber couplers that have a large jubilee band at each end. So you need one to go from plastic to salt glaze. If you join any combination of plastic, super sleeve, and salt glaze to one another, just make sure everything is cut accurately...

It shouldn't loop, just down from the top and into the fitting.

You need a structural engineer.

Tell them to replace the felt and get it right. Then inspect before they tile. If they want to patch, I'd be inclined to get someone else.

A golden rule in life, flat roofs leak. If you did the flat roof in that rubber stuff, there's screws and fittings to fix it down so far up the pitched roof under the lower course of tiles. I'm a builder and I would never have render, box gutters, or a flat roof.

Never tile direct onto chipboard flooring or floorboards. Fix 5.5mm plywood down with 25mm screws at 100mm centres. Draw a grid and put the screws in. An 8b4 sheet will take 288 screws. The size of your flooring will need 3 sheets and best part of 800 screws. Tile labour depends on type of tile...

I searched your images with Google Lens but no exact match came up. It's a case of finding out where they came from, manufacturer and/or supplier, or fitting something similar, or changing the whole lot.

Brick acid.

Prime with the correct product from the builders merchants and 3:1 sand cement bed.

Just add to your list - Altering the toilet waste pipe requires building regs.

Sand, powdered filler, sand. Repeat where required. Brush on Zinsser Gardz, allow to dry, then emulsion, then allow to dry. Fill and sand as many times where necessary, then emulsion enough coats until you're happy with the finish. Sugar soap is outdated.

Well, it's knowing if the original retaining wall was designed and built to the spec required for it's location etc.. Then if it is, how does the spec change by adding onto the wall? Will it go under it's spec or not matter? So that's impossible to know or to find out. So it's one of two...