Recent content by Casterbridge

You press the button, and there is always anticipation - will that needle smoothly run across the screen and promptly exclaim ">299Mohms" or will it start off on its journey across the screen, looking like it will easily keep going, biut ... then ... stumble somewhat to (e.g.) 180, 185 or 190...

OK - supplementary question. I will be using a connector block to bring in the lighting circuit plus switch circuit into the galvanised conduit (which will be acting like a ceiling rose, then running off three ligths from each conduit box (therefore there will be 6 neutrals in the one block)...

Thanks for al your replies. So current thinking is to use one of these : http://www.screwfix.com/p/25mm-4-way-galvanised-conduit-box/70836 with block connectors and three core, earthed in the conduit box, then feed three lamps directly from this box, again using three core to the metal...

Actually it looks like there is a nipple at the back left - perhaps the earth comes out from the inside here and gets screwed to the metal?? Has anyone chained these together with three core lighting so that TWO flexes go into the cordgrip?? i.e. does it have the capacity to take two flexes??

I am looking into running three lamps from an existing ceiling rose (in parallel from the exisitng rose, so that the same single switch operate all three lamps). I am looking at using the coloured vintage type flex. The flex will chain into these ...

Ok thanks, but what would happen from the ceiling rose (CR) if I had the other type of PIR?

Standard switch just switched live. If I wanted to replace the current switch for a PIR, would I just remove the swich and replace the two core with three core and earth from the CR to the PIR?? PS Haven't bought the PIR yet, so not sure what connections they offer.

Have 2.4m ply and need to but two pioeces together to get 3m for a shop sign. If this was inside with plasterboard, I'd use scrim tape and easi-fill. What would I use for this outside joint (will be painted).

I have just taken receiptnt door, unglazed and need to order and imstall the glass. Th wood "beading" is loose ready to paoint before glazing. My main question is how do you actually oinstall the glass? Also typically what double glazing is ordered, and once you've measured the gap, what...

OK 1. woud that be a C16 8x2? 2. Is ply the right thing to use over?

I have a space between a shop window (which sits on a brick wall) and a door, and I need to construct something to fit between. The gap is about 20cm. It needs to go from ground level to the top of the shopfront (about 2.8m). Would it be usualy to use 12mm ply to create a "box" and then...

Bear with me please, never done this before, but I am proposing to build a small cavity wall four courses high and have a folding door on top of this. I plan to use a damp proof membrane and bed it two courses high on the outer wall and three courses high on the inner wall. I intend to bridge...

It's a ground floor lock up shop. It's the front window. The upright steels are the sides of the window and above supports the frist floor flat. The middle ("web"?) is 5" across. I can'tr put in the "web" above as I am hanging the timber from the joists.

I have an upright RSJ. I need to attach a timber to the centrer (gap) bit. I am thinking about drilling a 10mm hole down the middleof the timber/RSJ take an m10 anchor. Is that the right way to do it. Is there a recommended lenght of bolt that should be used? I have another RSJ which...

Thanks for everyone's kind help and advice!! The bottom double element showed signed of charring. Image is upside down (you are actually looking at the bottom element) The second (orange) spade connector is quite loose - it connects, but not a tight connection. Resistance for...