Recent content by Charlie_Powell

Yup I think so.

That is fab info. Much appreciated. Do you reckon I might get away with using the offcuts I make from this in situ pipe to fit the new valve? It doesn't look so corroded or anything.

So I finally got reducers that work and I am preparing to install the bypass. I worry that the current pipe wont have any give and I wont be able to slip it in. I hopefully wont have to redo the entire pipe. Judging by the picture, would anyone have any tips ?

It only sits inside it about 2mm. I am bewildered. The reducer seems to be a bit more than 23mm at one of the bands. It is a Myson Abv22 Straight Auto Bypass Valve. Labelled as 22mm online.

It is a one piece reducer.

Hi, An update: I tried a Flomasta Compression Reducing Internal Coupler 22 x 15mm (73748) but the fixing screw part wont fit over the reducer as you might see in the picture. Seems I will have to try another model. I dont quite understand why it is not fitting.

Looks great. Apperently 15mm compression works fine with our 1/2" copper size. Cheers

Thanks. Yes but here in Ireland we still use 1/2.

I am installing an automatic bypass on my sealed system

Hi, I (foolishly) bought a 22mm fitting a bypass for 22 mm compression with realising I my pipe is 1/2". Finding a way to attach it is proving challenging. I cant find any brass fittings that would suffice. I would need a threaded 22mm to 1/2" compression. So I am thinking out an alternative...

Gutting is often not needed. Repairs are a better way to go. They unpopular as its less profitable for trades as a business but it is better for your pocket and the environment, if you can make it happen.

Gutting a house should be a last resort. It isn't good for the environment. It wastes construction manpower.

The chimney is a working one so it is not damp inside it. That gutter on the left is indeed a bit full. Very hard to fit my hand in to clean it but I improved it a bit. I also put some render on the brick abutment render joint. Thanks for the tips!

Hi all, I am wondering, what is the correct way for the slope parts of chimneys to be done? See chimney below See, I noticed that there is a damp patch on the internal side of the chimney. I wonder could it be coming from the cracks between the render and the brickwork? The other side...

I agree. I think they ran the pipes in doors to get higher density of houses per unit of land. The house is end of terrace, four in a block. I have done some research on the acoustic wrap. It looks great, but it is very thick and heavy material. Hard to work with in tight spaces.