Recent content by Charlie_Powell

Yup I think so.

That is fab info. Much appreciated. Do you reckon I might get away with using the offcuts I make from this in situ pipe to fit the new valve? It doesn't look so corroded or anything.

So I finally got reducers that work and I am preparing to install the bypass. I worry that the current pipe wont have any give and I wont be able to slip it in. I hopefully wont have to redo the entire pipe. Judging by the picture, would anyone have any tips ?

It only sits inside it about 2mm. I am bewildered. The reducer seems to be a bit more than 23mm at one of the bands. It is a Myson Abv22 Straight Auto Bypass Valve. Labelled as 22mm online.

It is a one piece reducer.

Hi, An update: I tried a Flomasta Compression Reducing Internal Coupler 22 x 15mm (73748) but the fixing screw part wont fit over the reducer as you might see in the picture. Seems I will have to try another model. I dont quite understand why it is not fitting.

Looks great. Apperently 15mm compression works fine with our 1/2" copper size. Cheers

Thanks. Yes but here in Ireland we still use 1/2.

I am installing an automatic bypass on my sealed system

Hi, I (foolishly) bought a 22mm fitting a bypass for 22 mm compression with realising I my pipe is 1/2". Finding a way to attach it is proving challenging. I cant find any brass fittings that would suffice. I would need a threaded 22mm to 1/2" compression. So I am thinking out an alternative...

The chimney is a working one so it is not damp inside it. That gutter on the left is indeed a bit full. Very hard to fit my hand in to clean it but I improved it a bit. I also put some render on the brick abutment render joint. Thanks for the tips!

Hi all, I am wondering, what is the correct way for the slope parts of chimneys to be done? See chimney below See, I noticed that there is a damp patch on the internal side of the chimney. I wonder could it be coming from the cracks between the render and the brickwork? The other side...

I agree. I think they ran the pipes in doors to get higher density of houses per unit of land. The house is end of terrace, four in a block. I have done some research on the acoustic wrap. It looks great, but it is very thick and heavy material. Hard to work with in tight spaces.

This might help

Hi, I have a toilet on an upper floor, sit in a hollow core floor. The soil pipe is ground entry into the toliet, so to speak, not coming from the wall. The noise of the water rushing through the soil pipe can be heard below in the living room. It is not to my taste, so at a certain point when...