Recent content by Deryck Tintagel

Where do the cables come from / go to? It looks like a simple junction box to extend the cable. I am wondering if you could run a new length of cable if the origin is at the NTE socket?

If you put the panel into engineer mode, then you can open the panel without setting off the sounder. This is from The XL6 but the XM6 should be the same. It has been quite some time since I last did anything with one. Give it a go!

Would a single socket be enough and would it be accessible? You will have to fill no matter what you do so cutting plaster(board) is just a bit more work. Where do the cables enter the box - left, right, or centre? If to the left would you have enough slack to nudge the box along a bit? If more...

I have done this for a light on the back of my house. The only downside is that the PIR and lamp need to be at least 1m apart. This may not apply to all but worth checking. In my case this was OK and involved nothing more than a bit of extra cabling I have the PIR lights mainly so I can see...

@opps Thanks for the opinion. Very useful. The Dulux water based paint I tried was more like water than paint and did not cover well. I have used the DIY Crown and it goes on fine but just wears off in parts. Admittedly, some parts have not been painted in a while so that could be part of the issue.

I have not heard of this before. A quick Google and looks like it could be useful

I will have a look into the Dulux. I think I bought some years ago (not trade) and it wasn't up to much and went back to Crown.

I have been using Crown non-drip satinwood paint for the woodwork in the house, but have noticed that it is not resilient to being wiped too many times - mainly on the sharp edges of the architrave and skirtings. This paint is water based as the wife gets a headache with the oil based paint and...

Is this just a two-tone beep once every couple of minutes? Tamper fault could be sounder, zone wiring or keypad / panel tamper. Can you loop out the tamper zone in the panel?

Tap the wall with your knuckle - you will hear where the solid parts are. I have been lucky running TV cables where I wanted them, but I had to change plans for the alarm system as there was just a mass of dab just where I want the cable runs to go and I didn;t want to patch a large area

I have mechanical TRV - one I think is stuck open and the others are OK. I now have a mismatched set that might as well be changed when I change the rads or have the system drained down to sort the blockages

Indeed not, but I am thinking of having a look at the pipes myself, so whist drained down I can swap a few over. I think the thinking was that if the rads are corroded, then it would remove the possibility of chunks of corroded material coming away and blocking again. Ah yes, good point...

Question of two parts: With the on-going saga of cold / warm rads that a flush didn't fix (probably due to microbore and manifolds being blocked), it was suggested that at least some rads would benefit by being changed. This is a job that I can do myself, I feel. The bathroom and en-suite...

Just a question that has come into my head. Having had the Magnacleanse on the heating system, does it need to be flushed through with clean water before refilling and adding inhibitor

Would this be close to the HW tank? I have a feeling that there is something there but it may be just a manual valve to balance the system.