Recent content by Deryck Tintagel

I did my lawn a few years back and walk back and forth on my heels in very small steps. You look silly but it is the way to do it in my opinion. Then rake over the surface to get a nice level for the turf. Use a plank when laying the turf and don't walk on it for a few weeks after. It will...

My dad was a spark and originally wired his garage using buckle clips with all the socket and lighting circuits neatly run on the roof timbers. I always thought it looked so much neater than what can be achieved using modern pastic clips. Later additions using plastic clips did not look quite as...

I bought a Lyco up / down light with PIR recently and seems OK and has adjustment for range / sensitivity. It is adjusted such that it only comes on as we approach and are about 2m from it

I will be painting the fence again once we get some dry weather but wondered on which one ... I have use Ronseal One Coat Fencelife previously but one part of the fence with arris rail always seems to lose the paint after a short while. I am looking at Cuprinol Duckback or Johnstone Garden...

As the others have said there is quite often a diagram on the relay itslef. Sometimes this is on the top or sometimes underneath by the pins. Can you rmove it from the relay base and have a look - you may find numbers against each pin. This is an octal base relay but yours may be different

I would go for this too if this is the best / only option My first thing woul be to look at getting new runs of cable to the PIRs, etc. Second would be soldering and sleeving - this could be a lot of wrok but the cables could be burie din the wall or hidden more easily. Are all your cables...

I would guess at 2.1mm or 2.5mm and plenty on Amazon for not much money - much easier than soldering and messing about...

What connector is on the DC lead? You may be able to get an extension lead?

Gravel board? Timber boards are relatively cheap at a local to me landscape / garden centre at £5.70 for 3m and 25mm thick

I am not an alarm engineer but I would start with getting a new panel - the XL6 is probably >20 years old now and no longer available. I fitted an XM6 back in 1993ish so it may be 30 years old. The panel does not have any communicator output

Are you tring to avoid more that one cable to the detector for aesthetics? You could star connect at a point where the number of cables is not seen? or arrange that those mounted on beams are at the end of a run

Yes, the wires are swapped per the sketch and for SELV using AC it makes no difference. The new LEDs are not polarity concious as the pins coud be pushed into the holder either way round. Providing the LEDs are OK for AC then you should be OK. I guess you have already had the replacement LEDs...

Looks to be AC There is a rib on the bottom cable on the righhand conductor but this rib is on the top left. So I would suspect AC and either way should be OK. As Sunray said, check the transfromer is good for more lights. How many are connected already?

@EFLImpudence The light looks to be in an accessible loft space. Could the OP identify the live feeds looped to the switches and insert a junction box with the looped neutral, then feed new switches and lights using T&E

I don't think I would for mains voltage. I will put a drain hole in and check what happens at the end of the year - I may end up with 308s and some glands