Recent content by holdyerplums

My daughter's flat has a Fortic which is due for replacement. There is no gas, and the cold pressure is great. So, she has lousy HW flow from the Fortic, and loads of flow from the cold taps. The electric shower isn't exactly Niagara Falls either! Can you buy an unvented cylinder just for use...

Don't really want to change the tap, as it is a Franke, bought because it had the lowest head requirements of any monobloc we could find. It was also fooking expensive! One thought, do you think removing the isolation valve would improve matters, as I suppose this could cause a restriction...

The hot water pressure to my kitchen tap is rubbish. Its a monobloc, but supposed to be ok for low pressure. Flow to other hot taps is fine. Problem is my vented system is in a bungalow with a minimum pitch roof, so raising tank is a no-go. The flow/pressure to the cold in the kitchen tap...

My Honeywell 2 port (normally closed) V4043H is nackered and approx 20 years old. Not sure if its the head or the paddle. Lever a bit stiff and slow to return. Heating is coming on when it shouldn't. However, there is no way I can get a spanner on the valves 22mm nuts as there are other pipes...

Thanks to all, will follow your advice. Sorry Rojoca, I don't understand your system. Sounds like you are bending them slightly, then bending them back to original position? I'm confused!

Just bought a new kitchen monobloc mixer. It's got copper tails, they widen out at the end to 15mm. What's the technique for bending these. Presubably I must attach them before bending, otherwise wouldn't be able to turn them? Do I use external/internal spring? To what angle is it safe to...

Cheers! You're a diamond!

I thought this was a DIY site?

I have a Concord WRS boiler, with gravity HW, pumped heating. It has a Potterton EP3002 programmer http://www.gil-lec.co.uk/products/Controllers/Programmers/Digital+Programmers/Potterton+7+Day+Digital+2+Channel+Programmer/2668852555 I want to add a Danfoss RET-B-RF wireless room stat...

I have a Concord WRS (Ieal) boiler, Potterton EP 3002 progranner on a gravity HW, pumped heating system. If I wanted to change it to pumped Y plan (I may also change boiler to a Broag), do I just have to change the flow pipework to fit a mid pos. valve, and add a Y plan pack (wiring centre...

I suppose I could do. Thought it would be less hassle than messing about with lead slates. Never fitted one before. Are they reasonably easy (I have done lots of other DIY)? Would I be able to re-use the original lead slate, or buy new one?

The pictures below show the view of the gable end wall from inside my loft. Its a bungalow. At present, the soil stack vent enters the loft through the loft floor, crosses the loft in front of a breeze block wall where I want to mount a new boiler, and exits through the roof to the outside...

Thanks for your help. The cable is 6 mm. A 3 or 4 metre run. Is this sufficient?