Recent content by jonnyw

We've had a lot of issues with this guy (and some other work he has/hasn't done on the same job), so don't want him back. I'm just trying to get an idea that other than looking crap, is it likely to cause issues in the future?

We've recently had the wet verge at the front re-done, and it now looks like below. I'd expected the mortar mix to be left flush with the edges of the tiles, and look smooth (like the previous repair visible at the top, which TBH I'd also expected to have been taken out and redone as part of...

We have a few open rolls of paper that we'd like to use to paste a single wall. Without the packaging, is there any way to identify whether the paper is "paste the wall", or "paste the paper"?

We have a row of 4-5 tiles at the bottom of our shower where they meet the tray, that feel loose (e.g. slight movement when pressed). One feels really loose, the grout has cracked and it can be rocked back and forth. It’s on the side wall (the wall joining the one the shower head is attached...

Ok, so another weekend, some more work. Just reporting back here, so hopefully if I've done anything stupid someone will shout out! I've replaced the lighting connector with a new one, and wired it the correct way round. I cut and re-stripped the T&E wires so as not to screw on wire already...

Cheers (y). I'll give those a try. I guess temperature accuracy is less important than the difference between the two probes (which given it's the same device is hopefully more accurate)

Is it worth getting a pair of these then: https://www.brannan.co.uk/clip-on-pipe-thermometer-0-to-120-c-f Unbranded ones are half the price on eBay, but I guess they wouldn't be accurate. No idea if brannan is a decent brand or not???

From a suggestion in my previous thread, I'm planning to balance my central heating system in the near future. I've read the FAQ here, and thought I'd get an IR thermometer to make life easier, but it seems some require areas larger than a pipe to take the temperature from. Can anyone...

So would one be enough? On the living room radiator?

The house builder some 25 years ago!

To answer the questions - I can't move the thermostat as it is a relatively new, hard wired smart thermostat (Tado) - The thermostat is 1.7m from the radiator (on a different wall, other side of hallway) - Valves: - Hallway: Left valve is smooth, and has screw on top, right valve has grip...

Ok, first sorry for the delay in responding. I missed the updates on page 2! The lights have been in and working for a few days now, but from the above and reading back through the comments, there still seems to be a potentially hazardous issue if connector 3 is separated while the circuit is...

Our living room seems to be really cold in the evenings, with the radiator barely getting warm. The radiator does get hot (top and bottom) in the mornings when the whole house is cold and the heating first comes on. I suspect that the radiator might be the last (or one of the last) in the...

Ah, that makes a lot more sense. Thanks for your advice so far - it's really appreciated. One of the terminal screws was pretty chewed up, so if I'm disconnecting I should probably take the opportunity to replace with new connectors. What is their proper name (a quick search for...

Right, an update! I've installed the lights (hooray!), and they've passed the initial smoke test (no smoke and I'm still here!). I ended up opting for some warm white strips that I found at Toolstation, [Light correct] Connector 2 - [Mains correct] [Light incorrect: brown to N and blue to L1]...