Recent content by MAJ786

Detached 4 Bed house. 10 year old Worcester Greenstar 40 CDI boiler. When this was plumbed in the system was changed - The CH top-up tank was removed, an expansion tank added, together with a pressure gauge outlet and top-up tap. I guess that means the open/vented system was converted to a...

I have a basin mixer that has always been tight and with fairly low flow of water - just about suffice pressure & mixing functionality. Now mixer has loosened significantly, and no water coming out. I'm thinking it means either a broken cartridge (replacement) or a whole new faucet? The Mixer...

That is right - the heating from the boiler is presuurised - The tap-side is vented / gravity fed. i.e. We have a large insulated copper cyclinder with a pressure regulator. I think this is refeerd to as a "Sealed System with Filling Loop". Okay so spray taps are out even if I put a...

I was going to insulate my loft under the Government’s CERTS-backed scheme using Mark Group (Yea haa?) - but was hesitant as they refused to deal with boarding and electricals properly: That scheme has now expired. According to Mark Group's survey I have 70 sq meters of loft with 25mm of...

We need to get a new sink & tap for kitchen. Planning on getting a Blanco (BlancoMetra XL 6 S Silgranit) which comes with: Cleo BM6100 chrome tap With 3.5inch pop up waste kit BFK003 Plumbing kit (BTW also planning on fitting an InSinkerator 65 (with airswitch) too on a new...

I'm trying to pick a water softener to go in a newly re-modeled Kitchen: House is family home, normally 4-5 people, 3 bathrooms, but often 7 people, and sometimes 12 people when guests visiting) Listed below with Pro's (+) cons (-) are the models I'm considering at the moment - I would value...

yep - ducting will be done from new air bricks to old.

Just agreed with my builder....to DPM over (thin) existing concrete, then concrete, then insulation, then concrete again on top of that with a "mesh". Hydro UFH on top of that, then tiled. Not enough space to block and beam apparently, without having to drill out existing concrete in the...

Thanks all for replies. To summarise it looks like: 1. Mixing Floors is okay Okay to mix new solid and existing timber suspended floor. 2. Solid better insulator than timber (for hydro UFH) To meet Building regs, and get a reasonably warm result, suspended beam and block OR...

looks like he did indeed mean Tile Backer boards not (Bekka's foil/foli boards) e.g. http://www.theunderfloorheatingstore.com/#/insulations/4529358221

looks like this is what he means: BEKA foli-mat http://www.beka-klima.de/en/thin-layer-underfloor-heating.html To be fair I just spoke to him again, and he says he does not mind going Beam and block, but there will be more work as to match the existing floor level he'll need to drill...

Builder has also warned that retro-fit of UFH will raise the (existing) FFL slightly compared with hallway (also suspended timber, but carpeted), but that he will do what he can to minimise it.

No. The porch is separate and already has electric UF heating under tiles.

The floor is reasonably high above the ground level (35/40cm). There are two existing vent bricks that would need "feeding" from new ones in the new exterior wall. In fact one surveyor suggested a third vent would be needed, pre-extension (when I bought the place in '97). My builder...

I'm not a builder / technician, but I am a bit techy. I'm getting to floor stage on an 12 sq. m extension to a 17sq m kitchen (ground floor). We want to put in underfloor heating in the new larger floorspace - water circuit, not electric. The house is a 1960's detached. existing...