Hi Guys
Had to drain my Potterton Open Vent, Gravity fed system via the lowest radiator so I could replace a pump by my boiler downstairs. Refilled and bled rads. Every radiator is nice and hot, however the two pipes that go in the side of my NEW copper hot water tank in Airiing cupboard are...
Thanks.
Then maybe I don't have a leak, maybe it's squeezing water out due to a problem with my Potterton Open Vent system???
I'll have another closer look.
Really appreciate advice.
The pump is not working properly, so as a temporary fix I picked up an identical pump (but not a flange type) so wondered if I could undo those 4 hex bolts and swap over the pump part.
I'm having a new system installed this Spring, so wanted temp fix to see me...
Hi
I have a leak by my old boiler (the 1st photo is a long shot so you get an idea of its position, the 2nd photo is a close up view.)
Not sure what this does, but it looks like a cap put on end of pipe, but when I look close, there appears to be holes drilled around it???? This is where the...
Hi
I'm about to take apart an old SMC Comet 2-120F Pump (see Picture), as this pump is no longer available I'm worried that once I disconnect it or take it apart, the gaskets will be ruined. As its old, I'm guessing I cannot go buy identical replacements????
Is it possible to make gaskets...
Would anyone recommend that I purchase a pump, but remove just the front housing, held on by 4 Hex bolt headsm I believe this holds all the electrics and the fan and motor part.
Are the placement of those Hex bolts standard, so for example if I buy one of the Grundfos or Tuff pumps and unscrew...
thanks for the advise. I think I'll drain the system, would that be from a radiator downstairs? as I doubt the values will move. I will try and take the pump head off first and have a look, see if I can free up the pump, otherwise I'll hunt for a replacement pump... If all that fails a new...
Thanks. I think your right, the pump looks easier to remove by taking out the bolts you mention. As for the pump, WoW thats expensive, I didn't think SMC were still making these?
Would I still need to drain all the water from the system before removing that front pump housing?
Cheers
Hi
Now before you laugh, yes I still have in my house the original Potterton Heating system from the 70's. As it has tanks in the loft, I assume its a gravity system. The problem is that radiators upstairs are perfect, but for the last week, the downstairs are cold. After reading these forums...
Sorry, its pump is by the boiler used to push water around the rads, Im guessing. The system does not have any modern fancy pumps whereby you can switch CH on only, or Water heating only. When you put the heating on, the water gets heated too.
My system
Water is in this pipe labelled B...
I have a gravity central heating system, need to solder a pipe fitting thats leaking. The fitting is on the pipe that leads from the bottom of the copper cylinder coil. So I locked up the ball cock for the water feed to the boiler and drained the system by undoing drain plugs on the ground floor...
Drained entire system and refilled, its a gravity indirect coil type. All 8 radiators get nice and hot, all rads have been bled and no air. However, the 1st Rad downstairs is making an internal dripping/gush sound. Almost sounds like its empty and waters being poured in the top!!!
I've left...
Just don't my first replacement of a Central Heating Copper Cylinder. One thing I've learned is that all these stop cocks on pipes do NOT stop water flow 100%, they must dribble!!!! Turned off the main cold feed, but little drips still dropped in to main header tank in loft.. ending up strapping...
Sorry just a quick question...
I'm confused.. Do I use the tape on threads, or put compound paste on???
Or both???
Just looked in ScrewFix and they have jointing compounds, with so many names, BOSS, Boss White etc...
I just need a good join in the pipes.
thanks
PS. how many turns of...