Recent content by Mug-o-Latte

  1. M

    Curving end of straight staircase!

    I have a straight staircase, that comes down from a dormer loft conversion, which ends only 69 cm away from a wall: Stairs]]]]] <---> Wall So the gap betwen the baluster at the bottom of the stairs and the wall is only 69cm. This leaves a rather small passage in which to walk through...
  2. M

    Removing self levelling compound nightmare

    Thanks JBo. I've got a crow bar and a pickaxe, so the floor will be attacked big time tomorrow ...
  3. M

    Removing self levelling compound nightmare

    The new kitchen units are already fitted, so I'm not able to replace the legs. So I'm getting the impression that no-one thinks it's a good idea to attempt to remove the self levelling compound? MOL
  4. M

    Removing self levelling compound nightmare

    It would, but I'd need to find 1cm of insulation across 20sq metres for the adjoining rooms. It would also make the kitchen units in the new kitchen 1cm "lower" in addition to the 1cm+ for the laminate flooring i.e. over 2cm lower. :-(
  5. M

    Removing self levelling compound nightmare

    Folks, Nightmare scenario on my hands ... I've relocated my kitchen to another room. The old kitchen floor was a mixture of concrete (2/3rds) and floorboards (1/3rd), so the previous people had glued plywood down over the floorboards, then self levelling compound to the height of the...
  6. M

    Kitchen unit - centre island - fitting

    Thanks Masona. I'll construct a wooden frame. I also have at least 1200mm around it so I'm covered there too. MOL.
  7. M

    Kitchen unit - centre island - fitting

    Folks, Any ideas on how to secure a central island in my kitchen? I will have an island about 1.3m by 0.90m, with a granite worktop 1.4m by 1.3m (i.e. with an overhang for stools). I fear that the unit legs will be a bit wobbly and so I want to screw the units onto the (concrete) floor...
  8. M

    Cooker circuit with junction box

    The junction box will be in the roof void (bungalow). The cooker switch is already in the wall, with 6mm going up into the roof void. Due to the need to move some wires around, I was planning a junction box with one 6mm wire in from the cooker switch, and another 6mm wire out to the CU.
  9. M

    Cooker circuit with junction box

    Soooo .... with a 6mm cable, and a 5.1Kw cooker, that says I have less AMPs through this circuit than my ring (if you add kettle, toaster, etc), BUT, I break the rules! :x Where can I read this 'rule' that I am breaking? And why do you get junction boxes rated at more than 20 AMP's...
  10. M

    Cable conduit

    Mmmm. I wish I had known about steel capping before I used an angle grinder then hammer and chisel to gouge a 3cm deep channel in a concrete floor in order to put a steel conduit in. It took me hours! I presume steel capping is still acceptable in place of steel conduit if you are <50mm...
  11. M

    Cooker circuit with junction box

    I'm moving a 6mm cable for a cooker circuit that is already embedded in a wall, and don't want to have to run a new cable and chase out the wall again, but the existing cable won't reach the junction box. Is there a law, or any common sense reason (or probably the other way round as I'm...
  12. M

    Laminate flooring & skirting

    Folks, As a result of having a room skim plastered I removed all the skirting boards. I'm now planning to fit laminate flooring. Would it be better to do this first, and then fit the skirting so it covers the 'gap' around the edges, or should I do the skirting then fit the floor then put a...
  13. M

    Part P costs - I think I've got to the bottom of this!

    Just enquired about a Part P building control inspection with my council. It will cost about £50, for the initial wiring inspection, but they won't test it for that. I need to find an electrician who is BSxxxx certified (can't remember exactly what xxxx equals), who is willing to inspect it, for...
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