Recent content by nigelm

I have a log burner boiler feeding a buffer tank via a ladermat type load unit and also UFH fed from the same tank using a small modulated pump to feed hot water into the UFH circuit. The cool water feed for the ladermat and the cool water displaced from the UFH are next to each other, can...

We are laying two concrete floors an a barn conversion. The original plan was to lay the concrete then power float to a polished finish. With 320 square meters to lay and polish we have found that getting the labor needed is almost impossible (the barn is in rural France). As an alternative...

We have a similar situation with our garden room, however in our case the building is timber cladded on all sides. BC were ok with a double layer of plasterboard on the sides close to the boundary. Regs are designed for stuff like loft conversion etc and are not that relevant to a garden...

Hi, I want to fit a vent into my slate roof as an outlet for a ventilation system. I have a vent which is essentially the same size as a single slate. Two questions: How do you refit the slates around the vent, as far as I can tell I wont be able to get at the nail holes as they will be...

Is there a minimum clearance from the ground to joist on a suspended floor. I am guessing in my case it would be an airflow issue as the ground is dry and there is no real risk of flooding.

BC are only interested IF it is considered to be a habitable room, my question is would it be considered a habitable room even though it is an open mezzanine and as a small floor area.

I looked at converting my loft, but with the building regs as they are it proved to be impractical. I also looked at using it as a storage area, boarded out, insulated with cuborads etc with a ladder access, but having talked to building control it would seem that even this would be too close...

We had a similar problem. As I understand it the number one issue is gaps between the two houses, usually in the loft area (as in my case), other examples would be arround joists where they are fixed into walls etc. Adding an additional layer of plasterboard to the walls can also be...

The paint is a linseed oil based paint, used because it is vapour permeable as well as behind durable (wont crack or peel). The recommended practice is to coat the wood with linseed oil first before painting. As mentioned this process worked fine on the door, I was hoping someone had...

I would suggest you coat the bare metal with a rust converter (you can get it from halfords). This will neutralise any particles of rust that will still be embedded in the steel. Also its best not to use water where there is bare metal, wipe down with solvent. Water is ok for wet sanding...

I have painted an external door and frame with linseed oil paint. (priming first will linseed oil.) The problem is that the door as dried nicely, but the frame refuses to dry, in fact just when i think is is starting to harden it seems to soften up again. (the paint as been on two weeks now in...

Thanks Oilman, I will give the Tung oil a go. I did get some Sikaflex 291 (marine sealant) but I am thinking of using this to seal between the brick and frame. I am hoping this will help bond the frame in place and keet it reasonable stable. On the finish would one on the water based...

I have just done the same thing. Two choices. 1. Get the work done by a part P registered electrician. 2. Put in a building notice with the council, get an electrician to do the work or do it yourself, then get the installation tested by a competent person. (Normally this would be a...

I am restoring an external door frame. Now I have stripped all the paint the frame is in good order, the only issue are some small gaps where some joints have pulled apart due to wood shrinkage. Mostly these are decorative so structurally it is not so much of an issue. Can anyone recommend...

As pointed out I did test with the supplementary earthing connected. On re-test the Ze came out at 36 ohm.