Recent content by paulo12345

Hi, Thanks for your reply. I had considered this but one of the chimneys (not shown in photos) is not in use so the air will be the same temp as the room and not all the patches are where the chiney's are. would this be the case with condensation from the chimney? Is there anything i...

Hi, PLEASE HELP! I have patches of damp about 1-1.5m off the ground on the end gable wall of my 1860's end terrace. The patches are on the internal painted lounge walls and there are matching patches of damp constantly visible on the external aspect of the wall. I am particually...

Perfect. Thanks again.

Thanks, that looks like its exactly what i'm after. You don't happen to have any ideas for some other doors where i don't want a lock or the recesses are not there where i want a handle that can open a latch from either side. I am probably after a mechanism that is very easy to fit and...

Hi, Here are pictures of the door in question. Exact measurements are: Edge of door to key hole 4cm (1 1/2'') Edge of door to handle hole 13cm (5'') Deep rectangualr hole for mechanism 3/4'' (1.6cm) by 3'' (7.5cm) Recess for end of mechanism 1'' (2.5cm) by 5'' (12.6cm) Thanks...

Hello, I have hung a number of reclaimed victorian 4 panel doors but they do not have any catch/lock mechanisms in them. Most have a rectangular hole in the side with a key hole approx 4 cm from the door edge and door handle hole apporx 14cm from the door edge. When i went to B and Q...

Hello, I am looking to replace the two top wooden panels in a reclaimed victorian 4 panel door with glass to let more light into my hall. I have reomved the two top wooden panels (which was detailed on a previous post) and carefully remove and retained the orignial beading from one side to...

Thanks for the replies. I will probably get someone in to do the tiling, replace the toilet, and fit the new bath and sink but want to do some of the less skilled work myself hence the need to get the bath out of my way.

I need to take out my old bath to allow me to decorate and re tile the bathroom before installing a free standing bath in the same place. Physically removing the bath looks fairly straightforward but it is disconnecting the plumbing and securing it while the bath is out (probably for a couple...

Thats great. Thanks for all your help. Just out of interest what is your problem with Fiddes Haredwax oil compared to other brands? Does anyone else have a view on Fiddes Hardwax oil?

Hi, Thanks for you reply. Would you recommend using a tinted hardwax oil on pine to prevent them going too arange at all then or should i just use clear and let nature take is course? I have found the Fiddes antique tinted hardwax oil which although not as light as my boards now has a...

Hi, I have decided (i think!) to finish the partially original and partially reclaimed victorian pine wooden (floorboards) floor i have just sanded with hardwax oil. I like the light colour of the boards now (a pale yellow/white colour) and would like to retain this. If i use a...

yes i was going to do that - there are that many pipes it will be like a (very) poor mans underfloor heating! The space blank will be between joist where it packs quite tightly so won't sag too much (at least not at first) but as long as its safe i will go ahead and lay it. Thanks for your help.

Thanks for your reply. It will only be the metalic foil in contact with the pipes so i presume that this will be ok and not melt. There are quite a lot of pipes so i would prefer not to insulate them as well unless absolutely nessecery.

Hello, Can anyone help. I am currently in the process of relaying wooden floorboards in my lounge and I want to insulated under them. I plan to use Knauf space blanket (because it is cheaper than insulation board and the joists are uneven in shape and spacing) but there are a number of...