Recent content by phatboy

You also need to hire calibrated testing equipment, I don't know where hires that out? As you haven't started yet, you may find an electrician who is happy for you to do the first fix, or more, as long as they can check on it and test..... but you need that agreement before you start.

The gap will hopefully vary across the wall, as it should be to level up a wonky wall. The gap doesn't need to be big otherwise. Tile adhesive spread everywhere will only work on a perfectly flat wall. Yes fixings with wedi washers would be a good idea afterwards. I can't tell if your wall...

Hilti TE2000 - https://www.hilti.co.uk/c/CLS_POWER_TOOLS_7125/CLS_DEMOLITION_HAMMER_BREAKER_SUB_7125/r6025050?activeTab=preconfigured-kits-tabs - excellent machine, will go through it at a reasonable rate Hilti TE3000 -...

I'd further argue the GD section offers nothing useful, and mostly attracts people with no interest in the sites purpose. As such, it could be removed, reducing costs.....

Great option. Duly ticked. Thanks!

Job done. The outer corners didn't stick that well, as I'd foolishly applied some silicone over the edges previously. So it's waterproof, but the tape moves on those corners. Hopefully the tiler is happy with that.

Thanks for this, is there tanking tape on the verticals too? Looks like yes on the right, but the left not sure? I was worried about not getting complete coverage, especially the corners on the face, but the tape seems to just be a means to hold the liquid membrane in place so it covers...

I can see them, they are about 10mm round holes. The doors are made by Origin.

My sliding doors get water in the inside channel when it rains against them. But there are drain holes and it disappears reasonably quickly

Hi all, I have a niche cut out in my shower wall, it's all made from Jackoboard. The inside corners are easy to tape and tank, but the outer edge I am unsure how to cut the tape to cover it. It isn't the right way for a pre-formed external corner. I've searched online but cannot see anything...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Timeguard-FST24-Timeswitch-Storage-Immersion/dp/B01E9R2SZO/ref=sr_1_1?crid=KPBWVADDURED&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.rmA4RT-RAF9wcm92LEDTMTkNjUD_5bltVwcQlCAbnmXeJsRI0MQfpqQtNw5hpz4QQ1z75geLX0LQyPNqk7--smYRMChZIHv2n2pzrCMuPyQ6aNNnUw-bSb8uXgFfJbc3MM_BFxkvHkvxG-pBFIrb4IKN4AQVL29Mawd-xDe...

Thats Rockwool, but less itchy. Recommended.

I lifted each length of gutter, cleaned the union or corner piece, then put a load of white CT1 on it, and refitted the gutter into it. Cleaned up the outside with Wonder Wipes, then added more CT1 inside where required. 2 years on and its leak free....

Im sure I've seen ones with a very long attachment that let's you drive the collated screws from a standing up position... sounds ideal!?

I think you would need your beams laid out to take the block work within them long ways (215mm) if a car is ever going to go in there. Not sure why engineering brick would be specified, unless the foundation is narrow - my b&b is supported on concrete blocks laid flat.