Recent content by pradeep79

Did think about it, but that will be a lot of wires to deal with and in case I want to revert to back to normal controller additional rewiring. I'm interested to know whether leaving existing controller and installing Tado side-by-side as I described in my main post a viable option

The new receiver is not backplate compatible. If I mount it over the backplate it will stand proud off the wall and still expose the connectors behind it. That I feel is not safe.

I have a Drayton LP722 programmer with universal backplate controlling a S-Plan heating as below: I am planning to wire a Tado wireless receiver into this backplate, connect L and N to Tado's L and N then remove connections 3 & 4 from this backplate and connect them with terminal blocks into...

Thanks, now I understand. The system pressure currently stands slightly above 1 bar so I think 0.8 bar pressure in the expansion vessel is the right amount .

Checked it using my car tyre pressure reader, shows 0.8 bar whereas the vessel states 1.5 bar as factory fill pressure.

Thanks, I will follow your instructions.

Yes, the red one near the hot water cylinder.

Hi, I am planning to recharge the expansion vessel on my central heating and need some information. I have heard people say that it has to be removed to recharge it. Is it right? Some others say that I have to drain the Central heating before I pressurise it if I don't remove it. I am confused...

Thanks Eric, I plan to bridge live and switched live with a connector and remove and insulate the neutral wire. I will leave the earth wire as it is in the thermostat back plate. I intent to keep the old thermostat in place so I won't need a blanking plate. I will keep all the wires out of sight...

I am planning to install a new Drayton Wiser controller, replacing an old Drayton controller. Both of them use the same back plate hence I don't have to change any wiring for the conroller. However, due to the way it is wired currently, when the controller calls for heat the current will be sent...

Do you think I'd be better off swapping the transformer to 0-30W 12V DC led driver? Would the current wires support it because they are 12V AC rated.

http://m.miniinthebox.com/en/description/10pcs-g4-1-5w-24x3014smd-120lm-3000k-6000k-warmwhite-cool-white-light-led-corn-bulb-ac200-240v_p2237346.html

What effect would 230V have on the insulation all other things being equal?

I recently bought a 12V Halogen light fixture that takes upto 5 20W G4 lamps. Inside this fixture is an electronic transformer that supplies 12V AC current to 35W-105W load. Looking for LED bulbs, I see most of the 12V AC LED G4s are 3-5W, which combined together wouldn't exceed the minimum 35W...

I had a look at it myself and it is an easy piece of work. But if something goes wrong later on I don't want to go through all legal nightmares...