Wiring Tado Wireless Receiver with existing Drayton LP722 programmer in situ.

10 Nov 2009
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United Kingdom
I have a Drayton LP722 programmer with universal backplate controlling a S-Plan heating as below:


I am planning to wire a Tado wireless receiver into this backplate, connect L and N to Tado's L and N then remove connections 3 & 4 from this backplate and connect them with terminal blocks into Tado's HW and CH terminals. Finally, I would like to leave the LP722 programmer in situ switched off so it can cover all the wires on the backplate. Both LP722 controller and Tado wireless receiver will sit side-by-side on the wall.

Is this type of wiring acceptable?

Since I'm removing wires 3 and 4 from backplate even if the LP722 controller is switched on by accident it won't control HW or CH.

One alternative is to remove the backplate completely and use terminal blocks to connect up all the wires, but leaving it in situ seems like the easiest option as long as it's safe.

The other option is to cover the backplate, but I couldn't find any covers that would go over universal backplate so the wiring can remain as it is. So thinking of leaving the controller to cover the wires.

What do you guys think?
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Why don't you just mount the new receiver over the hole???
The new receiver is not backplate compatible. If I mount it over the backplate it will stand proud off the wall and still expose the connectors behind it. That I feel is not safe.
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In my mother house, I had two thermostats, one in hall, one in kitchen, neither the best place, but the wall thermostat is there to turn heating off when weather gets warmer, it does not control room temperature, the TRV's do that. So no problem having two thermostats in parallel. You could have one in each room, the USA version of Nest has temperature senders normally sold as packs of three, so it monitors the temperature in four areas. For some reason not for UK version.

If hive is fitted in a cool room, and the electronic TRV's are linked to it, then each TRV head acts as a temperature sender, but hive is really only any good with the hive TRV heads, which makes it an expensive option.

Oh and wires should be clamped in some way, be it a cable cleat, or a tie wrap, they should not be dangling from the cores.
You remove the back plate first - it's not doing anything useful anymore!
Did think about it, but that will be a lot of wires to deal with and in case I want to revert to back to normal controller additional rewiring.

I'm interested to know whether leaving existing controller and installing Tado side-by-side as I described in my main post a viable option

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