Recent content by ran1

Not taking the floor up JohnD . Any work has to be done under the floor (nasty). Thanks for the input. Appreciated :)

Hi All I have a question regarding venting the underfloor. Thanks in advance for your time. Here's an overview with my question at the end. My house is a 1940's brick/cavity constructed semi without cavity insulation. Suspended wooden floor apart from solid kitchen at rear. My question...

Interesting. The quote was for foaming on the tiles and re-pointing afterwards (mortar) so the foam would not be subject to UV. Hopefully someone will have knowledge about this...cheers I wonder if removal involves a hacksaw blade slid in behind the tiles?

Interesting. I don't see any advantage of using a plaster sealer under paint. I do use a special one which acts as a vapour barrier from time to time tho'. A thinned coat of an emulsion containing no vinyl should be applied to new plaster then followed with 2 top coats of choice. I doubt...

Good advice from "oldschool". However as i read it, you're looking to go gloss, and non yellowing gloss at that. BL satura is water based satin (not gloss) I use buckets of the stuff and it's excellent as a 3 coat w/b satin system. I would go for johnstones aqua w/b gloss over the zinsser 123...

Thanks folks. Thats what I thought. :)

Hi All I've had some quotes for ridge tile work. Some have come back saying re-point only (I dont want this) The rest have come back as remove and replace (better in my opinion) The only thing is they all want to "foam" the ridge tiles on before pointing. I'm a bit of a...

I guess I won't be doing it while the scaffold is up then :( I wonder how water based stuff would affect it?

Hi all. I was wondering how long I should wait before I apply a solvent based water seal over my newly pointed brickwork. I was going to wait 10 days. The mortar is rock hard and has lightened (cured?) I would leave for a couple of months but am paying for scaffold Ps I won't be using...

Hi Ree. Thanks for your reply. The load bearing woodwork is old railway sleeper so they are creosoted and in good condition. It's because of the supporting woodwork that i refused to have the walls tanked as this locks the moisture into the walls causing wall tie and woodwork failure. I...

Hi Ree Thanks :) I've decided to plaster to sill level and leave the reveals. The plasterer will return later to do reveals when he does other areas. Regarding the other posts. I had the electrics done while downstairs ceilings are down and plumbing too. I hope Ive sorted the gable...

Hi all I was looking for a bit of advice. Im speaking to my plasterer soon but would like other peoples views on how they would proceed. I need the radiators on the wall, so below the window, from floor to sill is going to be sand & cemented as I've had issues with damp being sucked...