Recent content by Robin66

Hi. I live in a 1895 Victorian house and I believe the front door is original, but unfortunately it is warped. At some point the hinge at the door's lower right (in pic) has been moved out away from the door stop so that the door sits 8mm proud. But even so, the top left of the door is still...

Thanks for the replies. It is a brick wall so rendered and plastered. Previous owner has obviously had swathes of the wall reskimmed. There is no movement in the wall. The skirting is firm also (obviously the wood moves a few mm when pushed at the top bc it’s only secured at its base). I’ll...

I have a table saw so I could cut some wood strips a few mm shy of the gap width, glue it against the inside of the skirting and caulk up to the wall. Seems a bit of a faff but it won’t shrink and fall out.

Hi, are there any recommendations to filling a gap between the stair's skirting and the wall. The gap varies from a few mm to 25mm. Photo below. I've considered: easifill 60 mortar then plaster squirting some expanding foam down there and plastering the top I think any of these would work...

I want to replace my carpeted hallway with varnished floorboards. I was planning to sand and varnish the old boards in situ. Here's a pic of the state. There's approx 2-3mm gap around all the boards which has been caulked. There are also pz2 screw heads in all the places where I've lifted...

I've done some more research and found that red paint is notoriously difficult to get a good finish with. I should have used a dark grey base coat first to block out the white, which would have meant 2 coats of red would probably have done it, rather than 4+ coats of red onto a white wall. But...

B&Q is finally open and I was surprised to find the valspar desk was staffed too. I bought a dark grey paint (manhattan high rise) for a ceiling and what I thought was a deep red (Planet fever) for the walls, both V700 Matt wall & ceiling. The grey has a sheen to it and it's showing up all...

Hi. I'm planning to refit my bathroom and I like the look of the bead and butt cladding that I've seen up to a dado. From my research I've seen the options are MR MDF bead effect panels or pine T&G 9mm thick. The cladding will be all around the room which'll contain a jacuzi type bath, and I...

Cool, thanks. You've confirmed my initial thoughts.

The walls are plastered brick, and yes, I was going to dot dab. That comment along with some of the other reviews saying that the membrane had peeled of made me have doubts. But thinking about it some more, I could tile directly onto the plaster so if I apply the tanking kit first this will be...

Hi, I want to create a shower cubicle similar to the below. 2 walls of the cubicle will be tiled (porcelain or marble) and 2 will be glass panels. The shower tray will be 900*1600mm. I plan to install the shower tray onto the joists (1st floor suspended timber floor) into the corner and level...

I tried this out over the weekend and it didn't work out. The expansion ratio was no where near the upper limit of 50x claimed by the no nonsense foam which meant that I'd need about 80 cans to do the whole shed at 2" depth. I've decided to squeeze in 100mm loft insulation and cover with...

I'm building a workshop in an existing shed. It's near some adjacent flats so I want to insulate it for sound as well as heat. The shed is 10x17', t&g thickness unknown and the studs are 2" deep. I was thinking of stapling hardboard to the studs and squirting in expanding foam. I reckoned...

Ok will do. I didn't want to force twist it with pliers only to find it was "push to vent". Thanks a lot.

Hi. I'm having some issues with air in my system and I believe this should be an air release valve but I'm not sure how to operate it. It doesn't seem to push down or twist. Can anyone confirm what this is? I've attached 2 pics. This hot water tank is on the first floor, the boiler is...