Recent content by sm1thson

You may struggle to get a second RCD that would be compatible to make the none RCD side RCD, a simpler (and IMO better) option is to replace the MCB's on hte none RCD side with RCBO's (look it up plenty of talk on here of them), also check your earthing and bonding is up to scratch.

I've seen it crop up before on RCD's that use a functional earth, that the test button did actually discharge down the earth (i guess that tests the functional earth is connected and functioning lol).

^and costs money, cfls save money, and now they are practically (and sometimes actually) giving them away there isnt the initial outlay issue.

^it would be cheaper (and in my opinion better) if you prevent it tripping. OK so for the toaster example its a one off, so the inconvenience shouldnt be a big bother, it probably saved someone getting very hurt or worse. For the lights, as stated above its normal when a bulb blows to...

More answers will follow but firstly I will say I wouldn't decorate over a cable so old it doesn’t have an earth as its overdue replacing anyway.

I always find it helpful when the pros add some additional information. I find this because 'a little knowledge is a dangerous thing’ so its good to know some of the other things surrounding the original question to prevent further assumptions been made. Also what the OP ask's and what they mean...

I'm not a spark but a couple of questions (youve probably already addressed) are why a D type? are you supplying motors or something? 147ohm is a pass on a TT (unless your boss or competent person scheme says otherwise), but it is on the high side, should you also be reducing that as it will...

"Earthing" and "Bonding" are different learn that first and understanding the other principles that apply will be easier. (for eg, Gas pipes are not earthed (not since the 50's) however they are bonded (with yellow and green cable, the type you would use for earthing).

is the new wiring RCD protected? what exactly have they altered?

13) Do you understand what a shared neutral is, why it is dangerous, why it will cause nuisance tripping after adding RCDs and how to overcome these problems?

I think its fair enough the regulations dont cover every silly thing you could do wrong, the book i imagine is big enough and you are expected to use your head and not follow things blindly. Theres probably a number of daft things you can do without breaking a regulation that doesnt make it...

and try plugging a high power appliance (fan heater, vacuum cleaner, kettle (although these often cause trips anyway) etc) in to the TV's original socket and see if they make it trip.

Get a quote to get the CU moved to the meter, I know its £££'s but worth doing if you can, surely. And it looks like your getting works done so now would be the best time to do it (well before you plastered would be but dont let one mistake cause another, your plasterer will be able to patch it...

^true, but even the worst of landlord will want to get electricity problems of this nature sorted, true they may not be into the preventative actions but anyone can see this in potentially fatal. they wont kick you out for telling them dont go in guns blazing, if nothing gets done then you...

was it RF who did some videos of testing the current capacity of cables with his welder? whoever it was I'm sure they could do something similar with slugs.