Recent content by thomp1983

Whole floors being replaced, the bits that are down still are just so there's something to move around on

Hi all, Sometime prior to buying our house someone has butchered in some 22mm rad pipes that have always squeaked and rubbed on the floorboards. I'll be laying new flooring next week so today I'm on sorting out the pipework. The original notches in the joists were just enough to stuff 2...

Does it serve only your property or do neighbouring properties feed into it? If the latter you'll require a build over agreement and they'll specify what you need to do and if they'll allow you to build over it.

Water based

If your painting the copper then for me that will look better than a fairly long chrome tail extension on each end

Hi all, I screwed our new skirting to the studs in the walls and filled the screw holes with one strike ready mixed filler. I'm finding the filler is still visible through the gloss paint even after 3 or 4 coats as seen below. The filler feels flush to touch it just isn't covering, anyone...

60mm sounds about right, I'm fairly sure I used 3x2 cls so the short side would be 38mm with 18mm osb on top gives 56mm and you've got to allow for the thickness of the 2 finished faces of the paramount, the osb was possibly thinner than 18mm it's been awhile since I did it.

Had reason to come back to this thread today and realised I never posted a finished image of it all.

Bit of a reversal in that I mounted a TV but the thread below is how I put studding into a paramount wall so I could mount off it. https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/mounting-a-tv-on-a-paramount-wall.629349/ If you can screw into your battens from the other side then make good the decoration...

The foams supposed to be able to hold board on it's own without any additional fixings

Thought I'd update where this got to, lined the opening with some 18mm mdf, this meant I needed to use overlay hinges rather than inset ones. Just the skirting to sort out, undecided whether to fit it to the door itself or leave it off, I'm leaning towards off at the minute but we'll see.

Check valve is built into the tap and it's wras approved. Isolation valve is the other side of the shower which is in the room next to where I've taken the water from. If I need to drain it down I can remove the washing machine hose and drain from there as its the lowest point.

Hi all, I had to pull our washing machine out the other day for a different job and while it was out the way I decided to fit an outside tap using it's water feed. That's what I started with. Drilled through the chosen point and fitted a wall plate, Managed to cobble the...

Those wires look like there in a block connector. Turn off your consumer unit and carefully remove the tape and take a photo of what's under it, if it's a 'chocolate block' then it's fairly easy to safely check it

It would look tidier even if you moved the vertical drop so it's tight to what looks like box section then had a longer horizontal run at skirting height painted to match the wall