Which is switched live? Photo included

I will tidy this up, put them in chocboxes and put them into the ceiling void but in a way that still makes them accessible. I have already put sleeving on the earth cables.

Will also use heat resistant flex.



Anyway I can't be certain which wire should go to the N and which should go to the L. I have since removed the two wires which are copper clad aluminium ones but modern PVC before the terminal blocks.

Is there way I can test with my multimeter which is the switched live? My understanding that on a GU10 fitting it doesn't matter too much, but on an ES fitting the side of the lamp holders (the screw bit on the bulb) could be live when when the fitting is switched off it is wired the wrong way round so I also want to double check an ES fitting we have.

As you can see nothing is labelled up.

The switch live will become live when the switch is closed/on and switch is open/off will have no power. So if you set you multimeter to AC voltage you can then test for voltage or no voltage when switching on/off.
Or you could test dead. if you isolated circuit, you could simple close switch and then test which black core shows continuity when testing against the live loop.

Picture seems correct.

559.6.1.8 In circuits of a TN or TT system. except for E14 and E27 lampholders complying with BS EN 60238, the outer contact of every Edison screw or single centre bayonet cap type lampholder shall be connected to the neutral conductor. This regulation also applies to track mounted systems.

It would seem you have it wrong way around however since both line and neutral are both considered live your statement is not incorrect but sure when you say live you mean line (the phase wire).

To be frank really does not matter that much in a modern house with RCD protection on the lights. Also with BS EN 60238 there is little chance of touching a live wire anyway.

PrenticeBoyofDerry
please don't encourage people to do live testing. a multimeter won't be gs38 compliant and the op probably won't have the correct tester.

the connector with the single black wire in it is 99% switched live as the other with more than 1 black wire will be the neutrals

Gutterball said:

PrenticeBoyofDerry
please don't encourage people to do live testing. a multimeter won't be gs38 compliant and the op probably won't have the correct tester.

Click to expand...

Okay then that is a fair point!
Joydivsion, you can test dead for continuity with the switch closed/on, isolate the circuit prove it is dead using an approved voltage indicator or a multimeter that's probes are compliant to GS38, both these test instruments must be proved to be working prior and post being used.
Once have proved circuit is dead and proved instrument is functioning, you can then test for continuity, using the ohms reading function of your multimeter, switch closed and test between live loop and each black, once you get a closed circuit, you have found your switch live! This should then be sleeve red to ID it.

Gutterball said:

PrenticeBoyofDerry
please don't encourage people to do live testing. a multimeter won't be gs38 compliant and the op probably won't have the correct tester.

Click to expand...

GS38 is irrelevant to DIY work.