Advice needed for drywall construction.

600rob · 2 Mar 2014

Hi, not sure it this, in the right section or not but here goes....

The previous owner of a property I recently moved into decided to put a large serving hatch through the wall between the front room and the kitchen....

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600rob
28 Feb 2014
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I want to fill/block this hatch up so there is a proper separate kitchen/front room.
I planned on building a timber frame to install in the hatch then fitting plasterboard either side of the frame.
The wall is 120mm thick, 1135 high by 1475 wide and is a drywall construction.

I have a few questions before I start getting materials though...

1. How do I remove the wood sill thing without doing too much damage to the lower part of the wall. From what I can see there look like some hidden screws securing the sill(see pics) so hopefully it's fairly easy to remove

2. What's the best way of securely fixing the timber frame to the hatch? Is it just a case of wall plugs and securely fastening the frame before putting the plasterboard in.

3. Finally as I've not done this type of project before has anyone got any general decent pointers or advice?

Many thanks

Rob

Ps excuse all the back ground crap in the pics

PrenticeBoyofDerry · 2 Mar 2014

600rob said:
I have a few questions before I start getting materials though...

1. How do I remove the wood sill thing without doing too much damage to the lower part of the wall. From what I can see there look like some hidden screws securing the sill(see pics) so hopefully it's fairly easy to remove

It is not uncommon for these to be stuck down, but could also be screwed.
There is no guarantee that damage can be avoided on removal, I personally would lift using a utility/pry bar.

600rob said:
2. What's the best way of securely fixing the timber frame to the hatch? Is it just a case of wall plugs and securely fastening the frame before putting the plasterboard in.

This would depend on the material of the existing area you are fixing to, if it is timber stud you could just fix by the use of wood screws, if masonry then wall plugs will be required. NB. Prior to installing fixing, investigate for electric cables and service pipework.

600rob said:
3. Finally as I've not done this type of project before has anyone got any general decent pointers or advice?

*Use 12.5mm plasterboards
*try to avoid extra joints
*The timber stud frame should fit within the full perimeter of the hole and central support timber added.
*The timber should be at a depth that will allow for 12.5mm boards and 3mm skim for both sides, so you have 25mm +6mm = 31mm to take off the depth of the hole, your studwork depth will be required to be the sum of what is left.
*For a good level finish the edges of the existing hole may need raking back 3mm or 4mm, so you can apply joint tape and blend the plaster finish in. NB it is likely that angle bead has been used in this area and would require removal.
*Screw boards to stud every 150mm-200mm, using dry-wall screws
* Tape all butted edges up using self adhesive jointing tape
* Use multi finish as your plaster finish
* consider insulating the void/cavity, to increase sound proof and the prevention of heat loss.

600rob · 3 Mar 2014

Many thanks mate for that reply.

Does the board have to have a skim coat of plaster?

My plastering skills are pretty amateur so I was hoping position the frame such that the 12.5mm board sits flush with the existing wall then paint straight on to the board while its nice and flat.

Is that an option or is it best to allow the extra 3mm and get it skimmed?

ban-all-sheds · 3 Mar 2014

600rob said:

They are coming back into fashion.

I want to fill/block this hatch up so there is a proper separate kitchen/front room.

They'd be shallow, but would shelves in either room be of use?

600rob said:
I was hoping position the frame such that the 12.5mm board sits flush with the existing wall then paint straight on to the board while its nice and flat.

Is that an option or is it best to allow the extra 3mm and get it skimmed?

Depends whether you mind seeing the joins when it's finished.

tony1851 · 3 Mar 2014

What's coming back into fashion?

ban-all-sheds · 3 Mar 2014

Serving hatches.

PrenticeBoyofDerry · 3 Mar 2014

600rob said:
Does the board have to have a skim coat of plaster?

No they are paper laminated.

600rob said:
My plastering skills are pretty amateur so I was hoping position the frame such that the 12.5mm board sits flush with the existing wall then paint straight on to the board while its nice and flat.

What about the joints between the existing fabric of the wall and the inserted plasterboard?
There is a method known as joint taping, but that also requires a skill of application

600rob said:
Is that an option or is it best to allow the extra 3mm and get it skimmed?

The only other options are to joint tape as above or board to flush with existing wall, tape joints and skim the entire walls (both sides)

NS215 · 3 Mar 2014

Or pay someone £150 to do it properly

)

600rob · 3 Mar 2014

PrenticeBoyofDerry said:
600rob said:

Does the board have to have a skim coat of plaster?

Click to expand...

No they are paper laminated.

600rob said:

My plastering skills are pretty amateur so I was hoping position the frame such that the 12.5mm board sits flush with the existing wall then paint straight on to the board while its nice and flat.

Click to expand...

What about the joints between the existing fabric of the wall and the inserted plasterboard?
There is a method known as joint taping, but that also requires a skill of application

600rob said:

Is that an option or is it best to allow the extra 3mm and get it skimmed?

Click to expand...

The only other options are to joint tape as above or board to flush with existing wall, tape joints and skim the entire walls (both sides)

I've already taped some joints elsewhere in the property with self adhesive joint tape and a plaster skim over the joints.... It came out pretty good for and I'm happy with how it Looks so I reckon I'll give this a go.

Not skimmed an entire wall yet so I reckon not use this one the first try!

PrenticeBoyofDerry · 3 Mar 2014

Make sure you two coat prime (PVA) the painted areas that will receive any plaster that you are blending in, if not you could end up with it cracking.
Could also be worth a gentle sanding of this paint to form a key.

600rob · 5 Mar 2014

PrenticeBoyofDerry said:
*The timber should be at a depth that will allow for 12.5mm boards and 3mm skim for both sides, so you have 25mm +6mm = 31mm to take off the depth of the hole, your studwork depth will be required to be the sum of what is left.
*For a good level finish the edges of the existing hole may need raking back 3mm or 4mm, so you can apply joint tape and blend the plaster finish in. NB it is likely that angle bead has been used in this area and would require removal.
.

Assuming I do decide to a go at applying a skim coat using multi finish.

A couple more questions....

How best would you remove the angle bead from the existing wall and rake back this area to blend it in with the newly plastered section?

Do the existing edges need to be racked back flush with the plaster board in order for me to apply the joint tape then plaster over?

loply · 5 Mar 2014

You need to strip the plasterboard off the inside the serving hatch back to the studs, then attach your new stud frame directly in to these, then plasterboard over it and skim/blend it in. There should be no wall plugs involved.

If you don't want a crack to appear all the way round you need to use scrim tape, cut a slit in the existing plasterboard to accommodate the tape, then use joint cement before skimming. Else it'll in all likelihood develop a fine crack around the perimeter.

600rob · 9 Mar 2014

loply said:
You need to strip the plasterboard off the inside the serving hatch back to the studs, then attach your new stud frame directly in to these, then plasterboard over it and skim/blend it in. There should be no wall plugs involved.

If you don't want a crack to appear all the way round you need to use scrim tape, cut a slit in the existing plasterboard to accommodate the tape, then use joint cement before skimming. Else it'll in all likelihood develop a fine crack around the perimeter.

Hey guys, so I managed to successfully strip out the old sill, angle bead and plasterboard. Build a stud frame to fit. Insulated and boarded out the hatch toady. All that's left is to tape the joints/joint cement then skim.

As much as i tried to get the exact same section of timber, The wood I used for the frame was slightly narrower than the exisitng timber, so when installed, the new plaster board sits a few mm lower than the old stuff. Not a problem I thought as I should be able to make up the difference with additional plaster thickness.

However i though new and old boards not sitting flush might be a problem for jointing the perimeter..

Loply.....Regarding the application of the joint tape where you mention cutting a slit in the old plaster board, do you mean actually cut the existing board back through the paper so the joint between the old plasterboard on the outside of the hatch and new plaster board is flush so that I can apply the tape across a flat joint? I've added a couple more pics if it helps

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9 Mar 2014
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PrenticeBoyofDerry · 9 Mar 2014

If you are going to plaster, you do not require jointing compound/cement.
If the new boarding is 3mm recessed this is ideal for skimming, you will need to rack back the existing plaster on the walls about 40mm, this will make an allowance for the tape and you will not be left with a hump in the wall.

600rob · 9 Mar 2014

Gotcha! Thanks for the reply.

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Advice needed for drywall construction.

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