Transformer for 3x 3w LED GU 5.3 ?

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Hi guys, I’m changing my 3x old 20w GU 5.3 halogens to 3x 3w LED GU 5.3 . This is the old transformer GET 105va but wanted to check if it can still power the new bulbs or will I need something smaller?
 

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Also, there are 3x G4 display lights that run on a different transformer all off the same Circuit. Now the led bulbs work ok but I think the transformer is to high as if you put 3x leds they are very dim. Could I run all 6x off the first transformer?
 

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One electronic transformer clearly marked 20 - 60 VA so needs a load of 20 watt, other one says 105 VA max only and some electronic transformers can go down to zero. I was lucky I had toroidal transformers so not problem, in your position I would try it first and see how it works.
 
You’ll probably need to find an appropriate LED driver to replace the existing “transformer”. You say you gave 3 LEDs, but don’t say the wattage.

It might have have been better to dispense with thd need to have an external driver and (instead) use 230v LED lamps . . These usually mean a change of lamp base.
 
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You’ll probably need to find an appropriate LED driver to replace the existing “transformer”. You say you gave 3 LEDs, but don’t say the wattage.

It might have have been better to dispense with thd need to have an external driver and (instead) use 230v LED lamps . . These usually mean a change of lamp base.

As Taylor says above, you need the DC output of an LED Driver of the correct voltage and current rating.

Your existing power supplies are AC 'transformers' Edit: or as stated on the case 'Electronic Transformers'!- this is why your LED's are dim and may have a considerably shorter life span! :)
 
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As Taylor says above, you need the DC output of an LED Driver of the correct voltage and current rating.
GU 5.3 LEDs don’t normally require D.C. They can run on D.C. or 50/60 Hz AC. What they don’t like is 10s of KHz. Either get a proper LED supply or better still convert to 240v LEDs.
 
GU 5.3 LEDs don’t normally require D.C. They can run on D.C. or 50/60 Hz AC. What they don’t like is 10s of KHz. Either get a proper LED supply or better still convert to 240v LEDs.
Thank you for the info @winston1 . I'm sorry OP, I didn't realise GU5.3's could be retro-fitted in place of halogens.
My comments were based on my experience with discrete components. LEDs have a low 'peak inverse voltage', which means 'running them in reverse', can shorten their lives. They aren't designed to block current, as a normal diode would.
I might still posit that an LED bulb would have an easier life being supplied from an LED driver, than from an AC source ;)
 
Winston1 said:
GU 5.3 LEDs don’t normally require D.C. They can run on D.C. or 50/60 Hz AC. What they don’t like is 10s of KHz. Either get a proper LED supply or better still convert to 240v LEDs.

I do wish people would differentiate between LED elements and LED lamps

LED lamps use one or more LED elements to convert electric current into light.

An LED element requires a controlled DC current. This current is provided by and controlled by an LED driver

An LED lamp has LED element and an integral LED driver.

So Winston should have said

"" LED lamps don’t normally require D.C"
"" LED drivers can run on D.C. or 50/60 Hz AC""
 
LEDs have a low 'peak inverse voltage', which means 'running them in reverse', can shorten their lives. They aren't designed to block current, as a normal diode would.
I might still posit that an LED bulb would have an easier life being supplied from an LED driver, than from an AC source ;)

Indeed, but the LED lamps marked 50/60Hz have an internal bridge rectifier so the elements only have to pass unidirectional current.
 
Indeed, but the LED lamps marked 50/60Hz have an internal bridge rectifier so the elements only have to pass unidirectional current.
That is my question! :)
I would think that the drive electronics in the LED lamp may have an easier time, if the rectification and smoothing was done in the purpose built driver, rather than in the enclosed, hot and ventilation free lamp body!
But yes, the difference might not really be noticeable!
 
Surely the idea is to have a straight replacement unit for filament lamps. It would be a pain if every LED (or even compact florescent) lamp had to have an external driver when there was not one before.
 
Surely the idea is to have a straight replacement unit for filament lamps.

Cramming the cheap, mass produced driver into the bayonet cap of a standard lamp does work but some designs are not very reliable.

This is the driver from 1 watt LED lamp (15 elements in series) and hence less than a Watt of heat to dissipate from the bayonet cap into the lamp holder.

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Dissipating 10 Watts into the cap can result in high temperatures in the cap.
 

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