Drayton ZA5 Actuator fault

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Craigorams

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I have a problem with Drayton actuator controlling the valve for the central heating. I have replaced this 3 times since January and it ends up with the actuator burning out and smoking when power is applied to it. Just had this one replaced 6 days ago and it looks to be doing the same. The plumber who came out said that the actual valve is okay and the spindle has enough movement without any restriction

The actuator is making a noise when it’s not in operation and I’m assuming the valve is closed. The noise is almost a click every second and an electrical kind of fizzing noise each time. It was working fine initially but obviously something isn’t right.

It’s not burnt out as of yet, but I do t hold out any hope of it not needing replacing again.

What is causing it ?? Video below…

Actuator video



IMG_1094.jpeg
 
Last edited:
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Strange one, can you check for 230V between the brown and blue wires in the nearest junction box when its actuated, does the valve open with some resistance when you pull the manual lever across (unpowered) and then return under spring pressure, when it powerd (actuated) there should be no resistance from the lever when you pull on it. Is the flow direction from A to B?. Maybe replace the actuator + valve with a different make? Were the replacements FOC under warranty?
 
I don’t have a meter to test it unfortunately. There is no resistance on the lever or the valve spindle.

The original ZA5 was fitted for about 5 years before it burnt out and I have replaced it twice now since January with the same fault each time.

Could it be a controller issue?
 
I don't think so, these actuators are permanently powered while actuated and the motor just runs in a stalled condition drawing around 6 watts.
What is this valve controlling, CH or HW cylinder and do you have another one installed?.
 
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Can you just confirm that the flow through the valve is from port A to port B, if so then can only suggest replacing the valve complete.
 
Johntheo5 said:
Can you just confirm that the flow through the valve is from port A to port B, if so then can only suggest replacing the valve complete.
Click to expand...
Yep that’s correct.

What would be causing it though? The valve stem seems fine.
 
Don't know I'm afraid but I would go away and buy a £10 multimeter in Halfords or one of these places and check the voltage.
 
Craigorams said:
I don’t have a meter to test it unfortunately. There is no resistance on the lever or the valve spindle.
Click to expand...

You really need to buy a meter, they are not expensive, £5 to £10 - so you can work out what is happening.

What is supposed to happen, is - a call for heat, causes the motor to run the valve to open, which then operates a micro-switch in the actuator. The micro-switch, removes the 240v ac from the motor, replacing it with dc which effectively causes the ac motor to stall, and just hold it's open position, at a reduced current.
 
IF the other valve is close to it.. Swap the heads and see what happens.
 
This is the set up with both actuators being different types. The silver one on the HW is Honeywell and has been in since the house was built in 2005 without fault.
 

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Craigorams said:
The actuator is making a noise when it’s not in operation and I’m assuming the valve is closed. The noise is almost a click every second and an electrical kind of fizzing noise each time. It was working fine initially but obviously something isn’t right.
Click to expand...
Does the noise stop when its actuated on?, if so maybe follow the wiring back to its terminal box and take a photo of the wiring terminals that its connected into.
Craigorams said:
View attachment 335092
Click to expand...
 
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