Radiators stopped getting hot - everything appears to be working.

PolkadotFish

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• 5 Mar 2024

• #61

Downstairs radiators now hot!

With the settings as they were last night
P2 & P3 - 1.0 m³/h 46 & 85 W (I checked, it was 46w, but that is with the P3 in series)

It took ~2½ minutes for the hot water to travel ~70m.

Once the bypass thermostat registered the hot water, it closed and P1 joined in.

I then had 1.2 m³/h with the Wilo (P2) running at 60w

That's with it set on UFH 6.8m

 

J

Johntheo5

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• 5 Mar 2024

• #62

PolkadotFish said:

Downstairs radiators now hot!

With the settings as they were last night
P2 & P3 - 1.0 m³/h 46 & 85 W (I checked, it was 46w, but that is with the P3 in series)

It took ~2½ minutes for the hot water to travel ~70m.

Once the bypass thermostat registered the hot water, it closed and P1 joined in.

I then had 1.2 m³/h with the Wilo (P2) running at 60w

That's with it set on UFH 6.8m

Click to expand...

Try setting the Wilo to CC3.

 

PolkadotFish

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• 5 Mar 2024

• #63

The overall flow is reducing as the TRVs are closing

What setting should I have P1 on?

It can also do PP CP etc.

It's currently on CC2 but it would be good if I could drop P3 and have P1 & P2 adjust to the TRVs together.

 

PolkadotFish

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• 5 Mar 2024

• #64

Johntheo5 said:

Try setting the Wilo to CC3.

Click to expand...

I did.

It didn't increase the flow obviously.
But it maxed the watts and was much noisier.

 

J

Johntheo5

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• 5 Mar 2024

• #65

Yes, of course, you have 3 pumps in series with the heating on, difficultse to say but obviously reduce P3 to say CP 6.5M or so to stop noise, P1, on CC2 is 5.1M, CP1 is 3.0M, CP2 is 4.5M & PP2 is 3.5M, you could just try PP2 but I think it will be too low, then CP1 at 3.0M and/or CP2 at 4.5M.
Have fun.