The TRV fell off

ree said:

Poster #14,
So you are denying that there is accumulated sludge? What do you think the black stuff is?

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Have you ever heard of spec savers ? pay them a visit . You should be able to get a half decent pair with money you have made fROM ripping off customers for a basic weep on an o ring

If the rads all get hot throughout then no need for a powerflush.

However... A drain down and running cleaner through the system for a week, then draining again is always good maintenance.
PowerFlushing mini bore would not be fun.

Mr. Clueless said:

Am I supposed to hold the lower part tight while undoing that collar

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No need.

Mr. Clueless said:

Hell fire I didn't expect this.

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It's a real shame, just clean up the valve, change the head, and move on.

Good luck.

Well thanks for your replies.
The disagreement in the thread is a little confusing for someone like me since I don't have a clue & therefore don't know which of you are correct & which aren't.
My guess is there's a mixture of - doing <this> will get you a TRV back in place & tick that box whereas others are coming in from an ideal/perfect way of handling it. Not necessarily incorrect but some may see it as overkill.

Or maybe my guess is incorrect. I've no idea.

I've just had a look & the system was powerflushed December 2017. Longer ago than I thought.

I remember this being done because the shower would go hot-cold-hot-cold. Something about a heat exchange springs to mind or I may be thinking about another time. Either way it got power flushed & had the Magnaclean fitted.

System was A-ok from then until earlier this year when the boiler sprang a leak. I forget the rate now, perhaps 2 litres per day. The invoice stated [Replaced return manifold, flow turbine pressure relief valve] at a cost of £500.

All radiators DO get hot. Although I wonder about 1 in particular...




A small 600x600 one in the kitchen. The rad itself gets hot but I've noticed this crap here which as I understand it means there's a leak here. I'm guessing a very small slow weep.
*************** So as to not make the squabbling worse, those 2 thumbnails are of a DIFFERENT rad to the one in the OP.

Also when looking in where the stop cock is...



Depending on the source when Googling, this again flags as leaking. Some sources say it's ok, leave it, others suggest I'm going to get flooded.

The house is a damp house anyway & all that is right in & about the flooring & not far at all from that will be the living room subfloor....

The living room is approx 7mtr x 3.5mtr with the underfloor being about a 1mtr drop. If we didn't have a sump pump in place then the natural water level in that void would sit at maybe about 0.5mtr-0.6mtr which over that area is a lot of water.

Now you may say this had sod all to do with the stop cock greenery. I'm just mentioning it in case it does.

Mr. Clueless said:

others suggest I'm going to get flooded

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That isn't going to happen, you only need to change the head. You can pay a plumber to check it if you are concerned.

Mr. Clueless said:

Hell fire I didn't expect this.

Have we ever had a power flush? Yes. Can't remember when though. I'll say maybe 6 years ago?
Just to double check, the plumber was clanging & banging all the radiators. Sound like a power flush? After all this job he then installed a Magnaclean filter.

I did wonder about the corrosion in the first phot as to whether that's normal or not.

I don't know of any noticeable leak on that TRV although there are one or two rads which have that green crud around them which I think it supposed to be leakage? Again not massively so. I'll have a see tomorrow & come back here.


Regards the unscrewing as mentioned here, is it just a case of get an adjustable spanner & undo or what?

Reason I ask is when you scroll around videos & come across plumbing videos, the comments are always full of contradicting do this, don't do that & nobody agreeing on how it should be done.

Bit like this post here I suppose.

Am I supposed to hold the lower part tight while undoing that collar or should it be fine to just remove as I said with a pair of adjustables?

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Mr. Clueless said:

Well thanks for your replies.
The disagreement in the thread is a little confusing for someone like me since I don't have a clue & therefore don't know which of you are correct & which aren't.
M

I remember this being done because the shower would go hot-cold-hot-cold. Something about a heat exchange springs to mind or I may be thinking about another time. Either way it got power flushed & had the Magnaclean fitted.



.
*************** So as to not make the squabbling worse, those 2 thumbnails are of a DIFFERENT rad to the one in the OP.

...

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The squabbling is down to ree .The Diynot troll who's been here for years . IF you report him to the mods you might get a result - I wouldn't hold my breath though.

ree said:

why would they change the head?

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Because the one he has is broken, it fell off.

ree said:

Well done, anything else?

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No, head only needs changed.

Mountains from molehills

One thing I forgot to ask on this -

Off the top of my head, the TRV was at setting #3. 3 or 4 but if I had to call it then I'd say #3.

So when I put the new head on, does it have to be set to #3 when doing so or does that not really matter?


As for pushing pins in - nope, not tried that. Don't know what that'll do so I'm not about to experiment on something until I know what'll happen.

As for making threads on the sub floor - don't need to. Had damp guys out to deal with the work. Walls dealt with, flooring, joists dealt with. Sump pump installed. 11 years on things are ok. Would I like a solid floor? Sure, but the quote was £12k 11yrs ago so no thanks.



Also whats with poster number this that & the other? Can't we just give names or even quote folk? No offence but who's scrolling back to find out who lucky number whatever is each time poster number is mentioned?

turn head to number 5 before putting it on

Mr. Clueless said:

Also whats with poster number this that & the other? Can't we just give names or even quote folk? No offence but who's scrolling back to find out who lucky number whatever is each time poster number is mentioned?

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It's part of @ree's modus operandi.

Mr. Clueless said:

Also whats with poster number this that & the other? Can't we just give names or even quote folk? No offence but who's scrolling back to find out who lucky number whatever is each time poster number is mentioned?

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Just a self confessed troll.

Number doesn't matter but it'll be easier to fit if fully open, on 5.

I don't mean this in a pedantic sense, I mean it in an I don't hav ea clue what I'm talking about sense - but number 5 or max?

Reason I ask is I have some rads with Danfoss TRVs where 5 is the highest setting.

But with the Drayton, there's MAX after 5 which I take to be basically 6.

So does it matter whether I pick 5 or MAX?

Mr. Clueless said:

So does it matter whether I pick 5 or MAX

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Not very much. I might be slightly easier to tighten it into position with it set on Max.

You have a few choices offered by people in this thread:
1. Cheapest & quickest - Get a new head and screw it on.
2. Better, a little more expensive, but should provide a longer term fix - Replace the valve body and the head together.
3. Most expensive, might cause more problems than it solves - Replace the valve head and body, get someone to do a power flush. Perhaps have the radiators, boiler and pipework replaced and what about a new bathroom suite and an outside tap?

I would choose option 2.